Seventy years ago, Foia de Castalla introduced two unusual pumpkin varieties to meet the needs of local workshops, at the request of Xixona nougat producers. One variety yields fine angel hair pulp, while the other becomes candied fruit that decorates Christmas roscos. These innovative crops spread to nearby regions, becoming a livelihood for many families and a meaningful economic contribution. Since then, the landscape has changed drastically. The activity has shrunk as generations decline and profitability remains tight. Recent extreme heat has further reduced this season’s harvest, making four million kilos an unlikely goal.
Torres Gisbert, cultivating plots in Castalla and Ibi, is now one of the few remaining producers in the area. Jose Torres runs the business with his partner, Juan Ramon Gisbert. He speaks with quiet pride about dedicating his life to this crop. He recalls that their parents and uncles started with pumpkins because nougat makers drove demand. At the peak, some 40 local families grew pumpkins, with more from nearby districts such as Biar, Villena, and El Comtat joining in. Harvest time required many small, family-run farms, but long-term profitability faded.
That shift has led to a gradual decline and a consolidation trend in the sector. Torres notes that the same market forces favor larger owners. He explains, “We’re not there yet, but muscle and scale are necessary to handle external lab tests and the relentless demands that make efficiency ever harder.”
The absence of generational turnover and insufficient prices compound these problems. “We are better off than many farmers because we can negotiate directly with buyers,” he says. Yet rising costs for energy, fertilizers, and plant protection products are piling on pressure, making this crop increasingly vulnerable to extinction. It is hard to predict how long the activity will endure.
This ominous outlook could spell the end of national cultivation for the white candied-fruit pumpkin. Angel hair pumpkins are mostly grown in a small Extremadura region, far from Foia de Castalla and the Alicante area; the remaining plants are found only on the Valladolid plateau. Climate plays a major role, with precise temperature needs. According to Torres Gisbert, flowering is delicate, and heat above 36 degrees Celsius regularly prompts fruit shedding.
Productions this season are marked by heat and reduced yields. White pumpkins are still in the middle of harvest, with a 30 percent drop in output, translating to 240,000 kilos less. Torrid spells with peaks above 40 degrees have left pumpkins lighter than usual, weighing from 10 to 20 kilos, though sometimes reaching 40 kilos.
From the field to Roscón
For the same reasons, the angel hair pumpkin harvest, running from November to December, is underway. These plants are highly susceptible to heat because their broad leaves absorb heat rapidly. Flowering has already been affected, and anticipation hinges on rain; without it, the season could end in disaster.
While José Torres believes that pumpkins still appear in major brands, producers typically sell to intermediaries who distribute to confectionery and candy makers nationwide. Desserts that rely on angel hair and candied fruit are also diminishing. Historically, pumpkin-based fudge and nougat enjoyed strong demand, but today most production concentrates on roscones de reyes and a limited range of pastries.
Pre-processing before furnace-ready work is not limited to planting and harvest. Juan Ramón Gisbert explains that the white squash appears almost transparent, a quality pastry chefs prize because it can be flavored and colored to suit sweetening needs. Immediately after harvest, pumpkins are cut into large pieces and placed in barrels for preservation. When orders arrive, they are reduced into smaller portions according to customer instructions, and then stored again until shipment.
In the early days, customers handled much of the preparation. They peeled the pumpkins themselves at first, eventually finishing the work so bakeries could focus on confections. This added layer of processing complicates operations and slows spread across farms, underscoring the growing labor needs in the sector.
As harvest cycles tighten, the industry faces tougher margins, higher costs, and climate-driven uncertainty. The path forward in Canada and the United States mirrors this struggle: producers seek stable markets, efficient processing, and resilient crops that can withstand hotter seasons and unpredictable weather patterns. The conversation continues among growers, processors, and retailers about how to preserve this heritage crop while keeping communities economically viable. This is a story of adaptation and resilience, told from the fields where hope is planted and harvests are earned. [Citation: Torres Gisbert farm records and local grower interviews].