Runway Moments and Creative Loudness Across Madrid and Seville
In its 76th edition, fashion week showcased a mix of risk-taking and signature names, with Pertegaz and Roberto Torretta notably absent from the lineup. The show highlighted designers who push boundaries, delivering bold statements on the catwalk and inviting audiences to rethink everyday wear.
Heavy artillery in the lineup came from Roberto Díz, who presented a collection defined by its bold abandon. The designer rejected conventional structure, padding, and interlining, instead revealing seams in an unapologetic way that challenged traditional tailoring. The result was a collection that felt raw and kinetic, with pieces designed to move and command attention as much as they did on the rack.
Lightweight silhouettes dominated the runway, with some looks intentionally pared down to essentials. Suits crafted with translucent glass-like mesh teased the boundary between formality and liberation, as Díz explained to Efe. He spoke of moving garments fashioned from raffia harvested in Andalusia, a material choice that underscored a tactile, sun-drenched aesthetic meant to travel from stage to street.
The collection was described as a stimulant for the senses, built to shine on red carpets. The Seville-based Galician designer emphasized that his pieces were tailored for actresses who demand visibility, using electrified fabrics that gave the illusion of even the most everyday garment turning into a dramatic, garment-as-event moment. At the finale, a long fluorescencent dress emerged, a neon hymn to life and vitality that captured the energy of the room.
Custo Barcelona marked its 50th fashion show with a return to Ifema after presenting in New York. The brand, which has long thrilled with its sun-soaked color palettes, unveiled eight fresh options for spring-summer 2023. Custo Dalmau, the creative director, spoke of bright fabrics and a deliberate effort to let light pierce through darker moods, a mission that keeps the label lively and relevant. The collection continued to feature the brand’s signature mini dresses and dramatic openings that play with form and brightness.
Having grown into an enduring icon, the label has become a symbol of accessible glamour. Julia Roberts wearing a design from the line helped cement its international reach, particularly with t-shirts and casual wear that accompany its run of more elevated pieces. The focus remains on the dress as a star piece, balanced with a modern, urban silhouette that offers an alternative to a formal evening look.
Since its inception more than four decades ago, Custo Dalmau has shown a knack for adapting to changing tastes without losing the brand’s core spirit. The designer insists that comfort should never be sacrificed for style, proclaiming that all clothes can be both beautiful and wearable. That philosophy underpins designs that seek to surprise and delight, rather than merely to impress, emphasizing creativity and optimism as driving forces behind every collection.
The afternoon lineup featured Claro Couture, led by Fernando Claro, with a collection that played on organza, feathers, satin crepe, rebrodé, and printed lycra. The silhouettes mixed narrow lines with voluminous skirts, creating dynamic movement on the runway. The palette leaned into bold choices like fuchsia and Klein blue, while also revisiting the classics of evening wear in baby blue and black. For the first time, the Sevillian label introduced subtle menswear touches, signaling a widening of its fashion horizon.
Maite by Lola Casademunt appeared with a vision described as a summer dream. The designer spoke of a fantasy conveyed through sweet hues, bold fluoros, and glitter that energized the daytime wardrobe. Animal prints in blue and pink zebra patterns adorned pants and bags, completing looks that remained versatile and feminine. The line touted fluid silhouettes that adapt to different uses while remaining comfortable, a hallmark of Casademunt’s approach to modern wear that travels easily from day to night.
The collection from Casademunt also referenced a relaxed, fashion-forward ethos for women who demand both style and ease. The line’s fluidity was meant to flatter a range of body types, offering silhouettes that move with the wearer rather than constrain them. The emphasis on comfortable silhouettes complemented the more daring color stories and textures, creating a balanced offering that could appeal to a broad audience in North America and beyond.
Ulises Mérida captured attention with a win for the best collection in a panel supported by L’Oréal, a recognition that underscored the designer’s craft and creative voice. Lorena Duran, a standout plus-size model in the 76th edition, was celebrated as the best model, highlighting the event’s commitment to diversity and new talent. The show also served as a platform for emerging designers who will be showcased again tomorrow, signaling a healthy pipeline of fresh ideas for the fashion ecosystem in North America and Europe.