Custo Barcelona: A Quarter Century on New York Runways

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Fifty shows on international runways and still there is a moment that stands out. It has been 25 years since Ángel Custodio Dalmau Salmons, known globally as Custo Barcelona, first exhibited at New York Fashion Week. The Tremp, Lleida native, born in 1959, stepped onto a stage that was beginning to rival Paris and Milan in prestige. He earned a historic milestone as the sole European invited by the organizers to join 39 North American brands, a gesture that helped establish New York as a indispensable hub for the fashion industry.

That landmark show and a feature in the New York Times celebrating the phenomenon of custom fashion helped steer the company toward a lasting future.

Stability Award

“Fifty parades away from home and in New York is a mark of perseverance”, says the designer, who has spent four decades shaping fashion with a signature flair. He recalls the early days when stylists for hit TV shows began dressing celebrities in his work. His vibrant and playful T-shirts soon found a strong foothold in the United States market, a trend that would propel the brand forward.

Since then, the United States has remained the principal market, even as the brand achieved notable success in Europe.

“New York gave the project its international stage and became our second home”, the designer says, expressing deep gratitude to the city of skyscrapers. “The firm learned its craft there. We owe much to New York.”

Back after the pandemic

In February, Custo Barcelona returned to New York after a two-year pause caused by the pandemic, presenting a bold collection that invited audiences to turn on the light and embrace fashion for all. It drew 600 devoted fans to the Ziegfeld Ballroom in downtown Manhattan, where a disco ambience met a spectrum of shiny, iridescent fabrics. About 40 looks featured reflective textiles in patchwork and skin-revealing treatments.

Though the designer has showcased on many stages around the world—from Sao Paulo to Moscow, Berlin to London, and Shanghai—each venue brings a distinct personality and validates different markets. He notes that the global reach of a platform like New York is uniquely hard to replace.

Since 1997, the scene has evolved. The industry has faced moments of hesitation, with stark events shaping the calendar. Yet the team has always felt warmly received in the city, enjoying a loyal audience across the United States that has grown over time. The excitement remains high, mirroring the anticipation of the first day.

Safe and risky

This season’s standout parade featured the Sun O’Clock collection for the upcoming spring-summer. It combined innovative patterns with daring material choices, telling the story of a woman who seeks security yet chooses to dress boldly. The geometries and strategically placed openings signal a fresh architectural language for a confident Custo woman.

The collection’s essential pieces ranged from minimalist micro dresses with geometric cutouts to long maxi styles in jacquard fabrics with bold geometric motifs. Model Agueda Lopez, wife of singer Luis Fonsi, appeared on the runway wearing looks that reflected the Catalan designer’s vision.

Valuable stones

The line blends horizontal ribbons and jacquard-woven color blocks to create garments in vibrant hues inspired by the beauty and richness of precious stones. Think emerald greens, sapphire blues, topaz oranges, amethyst purples, and onyx blacks, used as single tones or mixed in new combinations.

The designer also embraces a trend toward wearing swimsuits and resort wear as day-to-day pieces, celebrated for their bold cuts and the interplay of jacquards and thick-yarn tapes that form geometric shapes and logo accents.

Another Sun Time highlight features oversized macro pants in multicolored jacquards with unexpected geometry mixes and striped patterns paired with micro-bead details.

Fifty shows on international runways and still there is a moment that stands out. It has been 25 years since Ángel Custodio Dalmau Salmons, known globally as Custo Barcelona, first exhibited at New York Fashion Week. The Tremp, Lleida native, born in 1959, stepped onto a stage that was beginning to rival Paris and Milan in prestige. He earned a historic milestone as the sole European invited by the organizers to join 39 North American brands, a gesture that helped establish New York as a indispensable hub for the fashion industry.

That landmark show and a feature in the New York Times celebrating the phenomenon of custom fashion helped steer the company toward a lasting future.

Stability Award

“Fifty parades away from home and in New York is a mark of perseverance”, says the designer, who has spent four decades shaping fashion with a signature flair. He recalls the early days when stylists for hit TV shows began dressing celebrities in his work. His vibrant and playful T-shirts soon found a strong foothold in the United States market, a trend that would propel the brand forward.

Since then, the United States has remained the principal market, even as the brand achieved notable success in Europe.

“New York gave the project its international stage and became our second home”, the designer says, expressing deep gratitude to the city of skyscrapers. “The firm learned its craft there. We owe much to New York.”

Back after the pandemic

In February, Custo Barcelona returned to New York after a two-year pause caused by the pandemic, presenting a bold collection that invited audiences to turn on the light and embrace fashion for all. It drew 600 devoted fans to the Ziegfeld Ballroom in downtown Manhattan, where a disco ambience met a spectrum of shiny, iridescent fabrics. About 40 looks featured reflective textiles in patchwork and skin-revealing treatments.

Though the designer has showcased on many stages around the world—from Sao Paulo to Moscow, Berlin to London, and Shanghai—each venue brings a distinct personality and validates different markets. He notes that the global reach of a platform like New York is uniquely hard to replace.

Since 1997, the scene has evolved. The industry has faced moments of hesitation, with stark events shaping the calendar. Yet the team has always felt warmly received in the city, enjoying a loyal audience across the United States that has grown over time. The excitement remains high, mirroring the anticipation of the first day.

Safe and risky

This season’s standout parade featured the Sun O’Clock collection for the upcoming spring-summer. It combined innovative patterns with daring material choices, telling the story of a woman who seeks security yet chooses to dress boldly. The geometries and strategically placed openings signal a fresh architectural language for a confident Custo woman.

The collection’s essential pieces ranged from minimalist micro dresses with geometric cutouts to long maxi styles in jacquard fabrics with bold geometric motifs. Model Agueda Lopez, wife of singer Luis Fonsi, appeared on the runway wearing looks that reflected the Catalan designer’s vision.

Valuable stones

The line blends horizontal ribbons and jacquard-woven color blocks to create garments in vibrant hues inspired by the beauty and richness of precious stones. Think emerald greens, sapphire blues, topaz oranges, amethyst purples, and onyx blacks, used as single tones or mixed in new combinations.

The designer also embraces a trend toward wearing swimsuits and resort wear as day-to-day pieces, celebrated for their bold cuts and the interplay of jacquards and thick-yarn tapes that form geometric shapes and logo accents.

Another Sun Time highlight features oversized macro pants in multicolored jacquards with unexpected geometry mixes and striped patterns paired with micro-bead details.

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