A few weeks ago a traveler flew to Tehran with no knowledge of Persian, and the videos circulating online suggested the regime might be crumbling. Ayatollahs barely managed a handful of prayers. Fifteen days later the journey ended with a greeting in old Persian, but demonstrations that have gripped the capital and spread to other cities for more than two months show no sign of stopping. The clashes have already left hundreds dead and thousands detained, and the total number of detainees is well into the tens of thousands. This is not merely a flare-up. It’s a sign of deeper illness, a reminder that the legacy of Khomeini and the laws of the ancestors still casts a long shadow.
Women outside the Imam Zadeh Saleh Mosque in northern Tehran are pictured in the aftermath of recent events. The scene reflects a country that, despite its rich resources and a young, educated population, clings to rules that feel medieval to many observers. Forty years into the Islamic Republic, the regime has sharpened an ability to tread two lines at once: outward conformity and inner reality that often goes unseen.
What is visible is a state that enforces rules that seem out of step with modern life, especially for women who must cover their hair, elbows, and more in public to avoid scrutiny. Stores selling intimate apparel and the wardrobes of many women still push against the old order, challenging the perception that Western-style freedom is the enemy. In public spaces, both dietary and cultural restrictions persist, including bans on pork and alcohol, and Shiite practice continues to be woven through everyday life. Since the 1979 revolution, the country has experimented with reform and resistance, yet the number of believers in mosques remains uneven, while many visitors, including a modest number of tourists, find the country’s present turmoil unsettling.
A panoramic view of Shiraz’s fortress in one late autumn moment captures a life that feels divided—an outer life that follows tradition and an inner life that presses for something more real and open. The ordinary rituals of socializing, hospitality, and long conversations linger, with drinks such as yogurt-based beverages and local staples fueling conversations that often stretch late into the night. The feeling of life within barriers is a recurring metaphor: beauty and vitality exist behind walls that shield them from outside eyes, and the only way to truly see them is to step inside.
On the streets, the so‑called morality police keep a watchful eye, aiming to enforce norms that many deem outdated. Women who do not veil fully or who pursue personal choices sometimes face scrutiny or punishment; even in private homes, symbols like handkerchiefs serve as reminders of the ongoing social constraints. Yet, the country’s cultural heart persists. People watch, listen, and critique a regime that many would like to see change, even while acknowledging the dangers of open dissent.
To illustrate the current mood, calls to join retired security forces have appeared and then faded, with many officers weighing their future pensions against continued service. The arrest of a number of protesters after the death of a young Kurdish girl who reportedly suffered harm in police custody underscores the volatility of public sentiment. Protests have surged again in Tehran and across the country, with groups forming spontaneously. There is no single leader coordinating the unrest, but the discontent is unmistakable, and the leadership of the supreme leader remains a target of criticism.
There is no clear border between inside and outside the country’s political life. Even as older generations remember the Shah’s era, many Iranians express admiration for the courage of women who defy strict dress codes and for young people who demand dignity and basic rights. A sense of shared frustration—women, life, and freedom; a chant that has echoed across many cities—speaks to a broader desire for change. The youth, in particular, face a difficult path ahead, especially after the death of the Kurdish student, and their demonstrations take the form of small, leaderless groups that nonetheless carry a unified message.
The struggle is visible in the streets and in the media landscape. As protests have intensified, a number of critical outlets have faced shutdowns, leaving fewer independent voices to challenge the regime. Yet the resolve among many demonstrators remains high, even as the risk of renewed crackdowns grows. Some observers believe that keeping the pressure steady could eventually erode the regime from within, though predictions about timing are uncertain and contested.
A fresh form of contest has emerged among younger protesters, who use playful acts of defiance to challenge authority. Removing turbans from officials, allowing scarves to catch the wind, and other symbolic gestures reflect a desire to expose the regime’s vulnerability. The protesters also face the reality of harsh policing, pellets and other forms of force, and the fear of escalating casualties.
Penalties remain severe in a country that has shown it will employ stern measures to quell dissent. Multiple trials and executions have been reported as authorities attempt to restore order, though the exact scope remains contested and evolving. In several regions, including Balochistan and Kurdistan, the situation is more dire, with harsher enforcement and more frequent clashes, while the capital sits as a focal point for a broader national struggle.
Inside this harsh landscape, thousands of women and men keep exchanging ideas, sharing strategies, and showing resilience. Whether veiled or not, they carry a message of solidarity and hope, a reminder that the long arc of history is shaped by small acts of courage. Even against a backdrop of internet restrictions and state power, the spark of collective action endures.
The country remains a mosaic of strong families, stubborn traditions, and an enduring thirst for personal and political freedom. The road ahead is uncertain, but the energy of the street suggests that the struggle will continue to unfold, with the courage of those who demand dignity and rights fueling a stubborn, unyielding push for change.