A few weeks ago a traveler flew to Iran with no knowledge of the Persian language. Judging by protest footage circulating online, there was a belief that the regime in Tehran was losing its grip. Barely a handful of prayers marked the early moments. Fifteen days later, the traveler returned with greetings in old Persian, yet the demonstrations that have since gripped the capital and other cities for more than two months have already claimed hundreds of lives and left close to two thousand people in custody, with detainee counts surpassing fifteen thousand. This is not a mere symptom of a disease, a sneeze, or a minor ailment. Evil may evolve, yet its successors persist. The regime’s foundations remain, rooted in the legacy of Khomeini and his ancestors.
Some restrictive rules feel more medieval than a country rich in resources, with a young, educated, and enterprising population. Forty years under the Islamic Republic have tested the nation, yet it has learned to navigate between competing currents.
Over four decades, Iranians have developed a dual life: an outward life shaped by tradition and public norms, and an inner life kept private and resilient.
The visible scene shows rules that lack rational basis, compelling women to cover their hair, arms, and legs in public to avoid provoking provocation, while underwear stores and fashion often seem as bold as any in the West.
In parallel, prohibitions on drinking or eating pork, along with other restrictions tied to Shiism after 1979, have been widely discussed. Yet there are many believers who fill mosques, while tourists—primarily Russians—visit in uncertain times.
Life unfolds in layers: the outward routine, and a deeper, more practical reality where Iranians share generous hospitality, enjoy long conversations after meals, and savor drinks like soft beverages, malt, and meals washed down with yogurt-based beverages popular in the region.
A garden of metaphor where life and beauty exist behind walls, protected from outside gaze, yet accessible to those who belong inside.
On the streets, moral policing aims to ensure adherence to traditional norms, sometimes even enforcing henna or veil usage. The public scene features eateries, gatherings, music, and dancing, while some observe the regime with a mix of critique and resignation.
An example of current alignment with the ayatollahs is the gradual withdrawal of some retired security personnel, who hesitate to risk pensions by opposing the regime.
They are called to strengthen. Police fatigue has grown since protests began; since the death of a young woman in police custody for wearing her veil incorrectly, the streets have seen renewed pressure.
The country has witnessed thousands of youths taking to the streets, shouting for change. The Kurdish girl who died in police custody sparked ongoing demonstrations in Tehran and across the nation. Groups have formed without a single leader, channeling discontent against the system and its supreme leader, Khamenei.
The country has not found a single inside or outside ally to mobilize a broad movement. Some see echoes of the past, while others admire the courage of those who resist, including the exiled voices of Iranians abroad who advocate for reform.
Since the death of the Kurdish youth, protests persist in small, scattered groups, yet there is no central leadership to coordinate the larger movement.
The driving force remains a youthful population that refuses to be silent. The chant Women, Life, Freedom endures, as does the call Death to the dictator. The determined younger generation faces risk and repression with a stubborn resolve, dreaming of a different future even as the regime attempts to block information online.
Despite strong resolve, the protests do not yet show the scale needed to topple the regime. Observers note that tension remains high, and many predict a turning point may emerge in the coming months as the movement sustains itself and seeks new forms of resistance.
A fresh tactic involves playful defiance: symbolic acts against the regime, such as removing a turbans or scarves in public, paired with acts of peaceful resistance. These gestures reflect a broader desire for change while the authorities respond with force, and the cycle of violence continues with injuries and fatalities.
The penalties anticipated in a country willing to enforce harsh measures remain a constant backdrop as the protests unfold. Courts and authorities grapple with the scale of dissent, and the public watches closely for signs of change.
Balochistan and Kurdistan
In the capital, activity concentrates in wealthier northern areas, universities, and education centers. Balochistan and Kurdistan, with Sunni majorities, lie in the southeast and northeast, where two Spaniards and others remain detained under prolonged uncertainty. The regime’s approach here is notably harsh, with dozens of deaths reported weekly.
Amid this desolation, thousands of women and men continue to exchange ideas with peers, whether veiled or not, sharing smiles and the victory sign as a symbol of hope. The belief endures that dictatorships can be challenged by ordinary acts of courage, even if the path to lasting change remains unclear.