A few weeks ago a traveller arrived in Iran without any knowledge of Persian and, judging by protest footage online, wondered whether the regime would falter. Fifteen days later the same journey returned with greetings in old Persian. Yet the demonstrations that have marked Tehran and many other cities for over two months continue to claim lives and leave thousands detained. The toll is high, with estimates of detainees growing to well over a dozen thousand. The situation is not a minor ailment but a broader, ongoing conflict that has deep roots in the country’s political and social fabric.
Some rules feel more medieval than modern, even in a nation endowed with rich resources and a young, educated, and enterprising population. In forty years of the Islamic Republic, the state has learned to navigate between strict tradition and pragmatic adaptation, yielding a society that carries two parallel lines of behavior.
During these decades, Iranians have learned to lead two lives: a public life that reflects ancestral norms and a private life that unfolds with more personal freedom.
What is visible shows rules that appear out of step with rationality, especially when women are required to cover hair, elbows, and, some argue, modesty in public spaces. Clothing and retail practices have shifted, sometimes resembling fashions found in many other parts of the world.
In this climate, restrictions on drinking, pork consumption, and other cultural practices tied to Shiism persist. Since the revolution of 1979, the country has seen rapid changes, and while many Iranians remain loyal to certain traditions, a growing number question the extent of religiously sanctioned authority. Tourists from various regions have visited during these turbulent times, seeking to understand the complexity of the country beyond the headlines.
Life in Iran has moments of outward sociability and inward resilience. The outward life often mirrors global social habits, while inside, personal stories reveal a culture of warmth, generosity, and a love for conversation, food, and drink. People gather to share meals, soft drinks, and traditional breads, savoring moments with friends that linger well after dinner.
The image of Iranian gardens carries a hopeful metaphor: beauty and life can flourish behind walls that protect them from constant scrutiny, yet access remains a choice for those who step inside.
On the streets, law enforcement focuses on enforcing norms that many see as outdated. Some authorities pursue strict behavior, while others observe with critical distance. The country’s diverse population contains many who voice discontent, yet also a notable number who remain quietly hopeful for change. Among visitors, a few Russians and other travelers have entered these turbulent times with a mix of curiosity and concern.
The protests have drawn thousands of young people into the streets. The death of a Kurdish girl in police custody and the fate of numerous others have become symbols of a struggle that is difficult to fully understand from the outside. Demonstrations continue in Tehran and across the country, with groups forming and dissolving, yet no single leader emerges to channel the broad discontent toward a defined outcome. The regime remains cautious about any major shift in power, and a sense of resignation mixed with anger colors the atmosphere.
There is no clear inside or outside, and comparisons to past eras are inevitable. Exiled voices occasionally reference former dynasties, while within the country many hope for a future in which personal freedoms grow without eroding communal bonds. A vocal call from abroad for reform occasionally intersects with local dissatisfaction, reminding observers that the country’s path is not fixed.
Since the death of the Kurdish youth who was reportedly beaten by police, small-scale demonstrations have continued, yet a unifying leadership remains elusive. Patrons of public spaces shout slogans for women, life, and freedom, and for an end to dictatorship. Young people, in particular, show both courage and vulnerability as they navigate surveillance and social restrictions.
Despite attempts to shut down online access, millions of lives persist in moving forward. The struggle is shared across a wide segment of society, with many believing that persistent pressure could eventually reshape the political landscape. Younger generations often lead with symbolic acts, such as removing a head covering in public or simply raising a sign of protest, while the responses from authorities remain severe in some contexts.
Notwithstanding the intensity of street demonstrations, the regime shows resilience. Some observers argue that persistent tension could precipitate a broader reckoning, while others warn that a swift collapse remains unlikely. The conflict is not simply a clash of personalities but a contest over the control of everyday life and the space for dissent. A new form of resistance takes shape among the youth, blending playful acts with symbolic gestures that challenge the authority of religious leaders.
A political and cultural struggle is visible in the acts of defiance by students and ordinary citizens who push back against restrictions. The public security apparatus, including the judiciary, continues to operate under a framework that permits the use of severe penalties, while voices of reformers persist in different corners of society. The events invite observers to consider how social movements can evolve in environments where power is tightly controlled and information can be constrained.
In this unfolding narrative, the energy of protest intersects with a sense of national identity. The tension between tradition and modernity remains a central thread, as people seek to balance respect for heritage with the demands of a younger, more connected generation seeking greater personal and political freedoms.
Across regions such as Balochistan and Kurdistan, the picture varies. Concentrations of activity are often strongest in urban centers with universities and educational hubs. In the southeast and northeast, where Sunni communities are common, the pressures on residents can be harsher, and authorities may take stricter measures. Some foreign detainees have been reported in these areas, highlighting the international attention that follows the country’s internal dynamics. The pressures there underscore the broader human cost of the ongoing struggle.
Amid challenges, thousands of Iranian women and men express solidarity through shared ideas, gestures of resilience, and moments of quiet resistance. A smile, a sign of victory, and a simple act of solidarity become powerful symbols that reverberate across cities. The path toward change remains contested, but the desire for dignity and freedom remains a unifying thread for many listeners and participants inside the country and among the diaspora.