One more year Michelin Guide distributed the stars among them restaurants spanish peoplein some cases it leaves a bright firmament, and in many other cases it is threatened by shadows. This publication first appeared in 1900, when the tire company Michelin published a ranking of French restaurants in an attempt to encourage driving and, as a result, change tires on vehicles more often. It quickly gained popularity and the brand eventually became known more for its gastronomic offerings than its wheels. This is life.
Spain did not become part of this special starry universe until 1974, a year after the guide was republished in our country. Much later, in 1997, this law would be repealed. In fact, from that first vintage only Donostiarra remained in the firmament. Arzak. In 1975, if I remember correctly, Vía Veneto from Barcelona was among those chosen. Guide Rouge should have returned the star to the beloved and admirable Oviedo restaurant on San Francisco Avenue just to verify its own history. It is equally true that doing justice in this case was above the real needs of such a tightly consolidated institution and honoring the cuisine of the Principality decades later.
Who actually longs for the stars? The answer will always be on the job opportunity side, as it is not easy to find out the criteria by which inspectors are managed or who influences nominations. Sometimes it’s just opportunism. Fruit garden, great restaurant RibadesellaYou don’t need Michelin stars to gain your loyal customer base. Not even to deepen a solid prestige through years of dedication. José Manuel Viejo and Rosa Ruisánchez. And you probably don’t need them either. Güeyu Mar, continuing to attract devotees of an outstanding fish grill on Playa de Vega. They are just two examples.
Undoubtedly due to its advertising attraction, Michelin projects admiration and desire in others who need a mirror of trends for ambitious small chefs or not-so-small, even large chefs, both due to lack and for a project that is difficult for the general public to detect. For knowledge and economy.
The Guide is aware of this and imposes rules that are not always clear, even in many of the concepts it deals with traditionally. All this turns out to be a half-truth. In theory, Michelin stars are given to restaurants, not chefs. If the head chef leaves the restaurant, the star does not accompany him. Yes and no.
It often happens that with the departure of the chef, the restaurant loses its star, but the chef immediately regains his star, without even having time to prove anything in his new establishment. This year, as far as I remember, there were two cases: the case of Eduardo Salanova in Huesca and the case of Andreu Genestra in Mallorca.
Chance
Michelin is simply a business opportunity, trend and fad. Otherwise, it would be incomprehensible how New York and Tokyo, long considered gastronomic capitals, were included in the list for the first time in 2005 and 2007. Until then it had not attracted the attention of French editorials. Enthusiasm? Guide Rouge, in addition to the undoubted and valuable recommendations of good restaurants, is also characterized by their absence and the awarding of stars to some people who seem to have won a prize in a raffle. Mentioning names can seem endless. Unless it is impossible for the inspection to be all-encompassing, it is also not fully understood that only one restaurant in Spain has risen from one to two stars; A segment where there are not many mid-to-high establishments is probably the best restaurant. More reliable when evaluating a kitchen. What is also surprising is that little attention has been paid to the rise of traditional cuisines across a wide range of stars from the hands of the young, well-educated chefs who bring them to life. Moreover, in most cases, when they are more attractive and modern than that flat and outdated repetition of decorating to bring meaningless dishes to the table, and when they fit into a monotony that is as insubstantial as it is boring. Any tired customer will immediately understand what I mean.
The good news from Red Guide is that Asturias maintains its good tone. The truth is that Casa Gerardo, by Pedro and Marcos Morán, in Prendes (Carreño), To have become one of the oldest Spanish restaurants featured in the publication is both a source of pride and recognition of a very steady career. First chief of the region Nacho Manzano and the NM teamVasco’s fine restaurant has achieved a star after years of Oviedo’s inexplicable absence; it also deserves to be celebrated in a style corresponding to the gastronomic capital of Carbayona. They owned the already mentioned Casa Fermín; Trascorrales, from losses Fernando Martin; And L’Alezna in Caceswhere he returned Pedro Martino Continuing to show what a good cook you are. It is no longer surprising that there is a new star Gijon fell into framesnew project Marcos Granda, businessman from SotrondinoBecause of the magnet, every restaurant that opens has to attract it.
In my opinion, there are several restaurants knocking on the door due to their undoubted benefits. The above-mentioned Martino, an important, well-established and first-degree owner of Asturian cuisine; Regueiro, Diego Fernándezsignature of technical and refined Asian cuisine Tox (Puerto de Vega); Farragua, Always inspired by Extremadura, Ricardo Señoraninside Gijon; continuous evolution Natalia Menéndez from Casa Chuchu (Turón) and that pleasant last minute surprise Alenda (Selorio Castle, Villaviciosa)from the cook Iñaki Gomez. Although I haven’t tested it properly, I have the best references. Pandora’s CageBy the young chef from Aviles Alejandro Villa.