Christina raises the core question about the state of Moscow’s restaurant scene: how did it endure the sanctions crisis, and can one say that Moscow restaurants are “sinking”? The answer depends on the segment being considered. In the premium tier, after the Michelin recognition in October 2021, bookings stretched three to four months in advance, yet the market collapsed in an instant. Foreign visitors who had planned trips disappeared, and Russian diners who previously filled Michelin-starred venues or paid premium tasting menus began to leave, selling off plans and detouring elsewhere. During the Covid period, the top venues had already quieted, but this time the audience decided to depart even more decisively.
Within the mid-range segment, Christina partitions it into two mental categories. There were beloved, well-known spots that stayed busy because people preferred familiar surroundings that felt safe and predictable. Newly opened establishments in the same price tier failed to attract that same audience and found themselves on the losing end, which frustrated many operators.
The lowest tier, with average checks up to around 700 rubles, saw viewers pivoting toward grocery shopping and home cooking. Income dips were evident here as well, and while a general decline hit all levels, the middle tier remained the most resilient this time around, though it still faced ups and downs.
Meanwhile, new ventures continued to surface. In October 2021, once many received Michelin validation, restaurateurs began planning for the next Michelin year, yet by February several projects had been frozen. One owner described how staff and customers migrated elsewhere as plans stalled. It wasn’t a rare case; many established owners adjusted projects at the final stage, shifting away from Michelin-focused concepts to safer openings to avert losses.
Some of the season’s more notable openings happened in the summer. Sangre Fresca appeared in May, Alexander Oganezov launched Amy, Yug 22 opened by Alexander Orlov, and Loona, Patriki, and Zoika drew praise. With much of the work already on the table, these operators pressed forward, understanding that people still need to spend money somewhere. The result was that Sangre Fresca, for instance, delivered three times the revenue forecast, signaling a high demand for quality dining despite broader economic pressures.
Prices in restaurants were a major talking point. Aram Mnatsakanov was among the first to raise menu prices, a move that came as a surprise since in hospitality, price reactions tend to lag behind cost changes. Consumers’ acceptance or resistance varied, and many venues paused to gauge the market before adjusting again. Profits across the sector generally declined, and many operators maintained prices only if their supply costs allowed it.
Supply chains became a focal issue. For Savva, the chef Andrey Shmakov managed to source Russian suppliers from the outset, keeping operations steady regardless of sanctions. Other restaurants faced a tougher landscape, with ARTEST, a two-Michelin-starred owner, confronted by a larger pool of unavailable international suppliers. Rising logistics costs pushed dish prices upward by thousands of rubles, a jump that many felt was untenable for certain menu items, particularly seafood. Octopus, for example, vanished from several menus as fish prices more than doubled.
How chefs navigated these shortages varied by goal and mission. Some leaders found replacements to keep guests satisfied, while others admitted that certain items were simply harder to obtain. Generally, guests did not appear to notice every missing product; the industry managed to maintain a sense of abundance through substitutions and creative sourcing. It was not accurate to say that the sector suffered uniformly from sanctions, though pockets may have felt the strain more acutely than others.
With the Michelin guide arriving, the industry watched with a mix of hope and caution. Mirko Dzago, who helped launch Onest when the Michelin recognition arrived, had hoped for a star this year. While expectations were high, timing did not align, and the waiting game continued. For those who earned stars earlier, the reaction was varied: some worried the accolade might be temporary, others believed the honor would endure. There was a shared belief that Michelin recognition could return with renewed momentum, though uncertainty lingered.
Foreign chefs and restauranteurs also faced changes. Some figures, such as Sabby Kenyon, moved to Australia, while others remained in Russia, including Emanuele Pollini, David Emmerle, Regis Trigel, Mirko Dzago, and William Lamberti, who had established strong ties with the local scene. The broader pattern showed that collaborations with Western colleagues had slowed, partly due to uncertainty about the future and concerns about reputational risk abroad. In spite of these tensions, Russian professionals continued to mentor and support one another, maintaining a sense of community within the country.
Looking ahead, some wondered whether the domestic market could become a stronger pull for talent and investment. The arrival of regional visitors offered bright spots, and several projects opened with a sense of inevitability, given that people need to spend time somewhere. Yet the landscape was still shaping up, with quality venues competing for attention in a market that preferred quiet, reliable experiences over uncertain ventures. The overall mood suggested resilience, with a belief that the industry could recover and evolve, even as the broader geopolitical climate remained unsettled.
The bar scene presented its own challenges. It faced scarcity similar to groceries, with some whiskey varieties and wine running short. Savva managed to secure stable supply through prudent purchasing, but others faced daily shifts in inventory and upfront payments. Nobo, for example, often had to reprint its wine list daily as shipments arrived with substitutions. In many projects, champagne vanished, and customers adapted by cocktails crafted from what was available. Still, the spirit of adaptation persisted, and the industry pressed on, constantly seeking ways to improve and innovate.
When contemplating future restaurant trends in Russia, industry insiders noted a long arc of resilience rather than a quick fix. The experience across dozens of countries had shown that Moscow and St. Petersburg boasted some of the strongest restaurant ecosystems, renowned for service, design, cuisine, and social media presence. While Western benchmarks remained influential, Russian venues were increasingly emphasizing distinctive local strengths and a unique culinary voice. The hope was that Michelin would reemerge as a catalyst, guiding attention to the best of Russian produce—fermented baked milk, buckwheat, cone jam, pickles—and helping Russian cuisine gain recognition on the world stage. Yet for now, the road ahead looked uncertain, and the balance between ambition and pragmatism would continue to define the sector. In the end, Moscow’s restaurant industry remained robust and capable of growth, even as it navigated a difficult global environment and a shifting domestic economy. (Citation: Industry analysis, 2024 report).