Raw cuttlefish curry. This is the traditional Valencian stew reimagined by chef Vicky Sevilla from Sagunto, the youngest woman in Spain to earn a Michelin Star. At Sagunto Arrels, she introduces a cuttlefish jelly that intensifies the flavor, complemented by a fresh curry, sprouts, oyster leaves, and a spinach alioli.
“An invention that took root during the pandemic. The menu shifted seven times as closures pressed in, and when the restaurant faced another winter closure in January, a versatile casserole was born, one that works in both winter and summer if it lasts until summer,” Sevilla explains, reflecting on a moment that shaped the restaurant’s identity. The setting sits in a historic space once used by the Palace of the Dukes of Gaeta, now host to Arrels.
Space for 25 guests was chosen by Sevilla to keep the experience intimate. The plan is simple: the restaurant opens for lunch from Tuesday to Saturday and for dinner from Thursday to Saturday. “Working in a kitchen is demanding. There are burns, cuts, and constant stress,” the chef notes, yet the payoff is clear: making people happy is deeply rewarding. She speaks during a Cervecerías 1906 event about the Imperfectxs cycle, clarifying the restaurant’s philosophy.
All of Sevilla’s menu focuses on products from her land, rooted in Valencia, and memories of childhood when Valencia’s citrus fruits spark the palate with bright, sunlit flavors.
Arrels has been open since 2017 and earned its first Michelin mention in 2019 with Bib Gourmand. Five years later, it was recognized with a Michelin star, a credit that filled the dining room with energy and pride.
Three menus guide the dining experience: Llavor (short), Saba (mid), and Arrels (long). The tasting options range from 48 to 89 euros, excluding wine pairings.
In a master class titled ‘By the power of talent,’ Sevilla followed in the footsteps of peers who spoke before her, including innovators in zero waste, collaborative kitchens, and sea garden concepts.
As Sevilla often recounts, she left school early, unsure of her path despite an interest in the arts. A chance encounter in Formentera revealed the culinary life, and she began working in a kitchen. The journey started there, with years of hard work and the early recognition that followed. A year later she took charge of the cold room, not because she was the only one who could do it, but because she believed in carrying out tasks with purpose.
Back in her homeland, she continued her education under the guidance of renowned chefs in the Valencian Community. Susi Díaz of La Finca in Elche and Begoña Rodrigo of La Salita in Valencia became influences who helped shape her craft. Rodrigo, in particular, stood as a mentor and a mirror, offering inspiration and perspective.
Women and young entrepreneurs
The path to opening Arrels in the historic center of Sagunto demanded grit. Young entrepreneurs face formidable financial hurdles, and Sevilla often recalls the initial reluctance of banks to support a new venture. The first year was tough, yet perseverance, clear intention, and a strong vision helped her establish a growing presence in Valencia’s gastronomic scene.
Remarkably, a year after Arrels opened, Sevilla was named Young Word of the Valencian Community by Diario Levante. In 2019 Arrels appeared in the Michelin Guide in the Bib Gourmand category; in 2020 Sevilla was shortlisted for the Revelation Chef award at Madrid Fusión, and the same year Arrels earned its first Sol Repsol from the Repsol Guide. The restaurant achieved its Michelin star in December 2021, a milestone that drew broader attention to its signature cuisine—grounded in tradition and supported by top-tier products.
Vicky Sevilla became the youngest woman to win a Michelin star in Spain, a triumph earned through talent and dedication. The star did not derail her priorities; she emphasized family and real-life balance, sometimes choosing Sundays as a family day. This personal decision helped shape Arrels’ schedule, reinforcing the belief that sustaining a dream means making room for loved ones.