In Toledo this evening, at the El Greco Conference Center, the annual ceremony confirmed the absence of new three-star additions in Alicante or the Valencian Community. Yet the prestige remains strong as two new Spanish organizations broke onto the Olympus of top kitchens: Atrium by Toño Pérez in Cáceres and Kitchen Brothers Torres in Barcelona.
The province of Alicante keeps its stellar reputation intact, holding steady at 15 stars across 11 restaurants. The calendar of excellence continues with the three-star Quique Dacosta Restaurant, and the two-star recognitions for L’Escaleta by Kiko Moya in Cocentaina, and BonAmb by Alberto Ferruz in Xàbia. Dénia’s Peix & Brases, together with La Finca in Elche, Casa Pepa in Ondara, El Xato in La Nucía, Beat in Calp, Audrey’s and Tula in Calp and Xàbia, round out the two-star cohort, alongside the ongoing two-star status for Denia’s culinary scene.
Quique Dacosta’s influence also extended to a second star for Deessa in Madrid, underscoring the chef’s broad impact across Spain. His collaboration with the Mandarin Oriental Ritz Hotel in Madrid, where he previously earned his first star, is highlighted as a career milestone. Since signing on as gastronomy director in 2021, Dacosta has shaped a dining concept that blends Mediterranean flavors with a metropolitan sensibility, earning continued recognition as his teams continue to evolve. The chef’s leadership is evident as the kitchen staff, including Guillermo Chavez, consistently elevates service and presentation.
The guide also notes that no green stars were awarded for sustainable gastronomy in this edition. The Mentor Chef and Young Chef awards, introduced last year, honored Joan Roca of El Celler de Can Roca in Girona and Cristobal Muñoz of Ambivium in Peñafiel. A new award, the Room Award, was given to Toni Gerez of Castell de Perelada in Girona. Gwendal Poullenec, International Director of Michelin Guides, announced two separate galas, one in Portugal and one in Spain, to celebrate the evolving culinary landscape.
Historically, Spain has not awarded a highest three-star distinction every year in recent times. The lineup currently includes 13 three-star restaurants, with three new two-star establishments and many venues continuing to pursue top recognition. The discussion also touches on the fate of two long-standing candidates, Aponiente in Cádiz and ABaC in Barcelona, whose three-star status has not changed since 2018, and Cenador de Amós in Cantabria, which last held three stars in 2020.
The Michelin Guide Spain and Portugal 2023 also marks the elevation of a second star for Deessa in Madrid, Pepe Vieira at Serpe in Pontevedra, and El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Adeje, Tenerife, alongside a broader set of 29 additional restaurants. The focus remains on bold, risk-taking projects led by young chefs in their communities as a whole, with Catalonia and Barcelona earning the strongest recognition, Madrid following, and more modest footprints in the Basque Country and other regions. The Valencian Community’s earlier prominence stands out less in this edition, signaling a shift in regional attention within the guide.
Overall, the 2023 edition of the Michelin Guide for Spain and Portugal continues to chart a dynamic culinary map. It highlights the balance between enduring institutions and fresh voices, between tradition and bold experimentation, and between regional pride and national breadth. The awards celebrate achievement, while also signaling where the industry is headed, inviting diners to explore a diverse, evolving landscape that champions quality, consistency, and innovation across major cities like Barcelona and Madrid and beyond into the smaller yet equally ambitious kitchens of Dénia, Cáceres, and the surrounding communities. (Michelin Guide Spain and Portugal 2023, attribution)
— End of overview —