Portuguese taverns struggle to survive

in a seafood restaurant Penalva da GracaThere is less activity than usual in Lisbon. Even though Friday night and dinner services are busier than the food, the waiters don’t seem that busy. They move from one side of the building to the other in a route that seems to have been choreographed: they take their orders, they go to the entrance of the building, they show themselves on either side of the door. main products of the houseThey are then taken to the service hatch on the other side of the room. A few minutes later they are back on the table perfectly cooked.

The owner of the tavern, Luis Melo, is dedicated to welcoming regular customers through the door, right next to a large aquarium. half a dozen spider crabs and a few lobsters that attract the attention of tourists wandering the streets of Lisbon’s central Lisbon quarter Grace. Between client and client, “My father took over the place 39 years ago, even though it’s been open for 68 years. When my brother and I were little, we used to sleep in the warehouse while they were working,” explains Melo.

Then, he says, most neighborhood neighborsalthough more foreigners have been coming for a few years. “With Tourism boom in Lisbon As of 2015, more and more tourists come to our restaurant. a loyal customer. This guy [dice señalando al final de la barra] Been coming to eat for over 30 years. Many come alone to drink beer because they know it. they will always find someone they know”. The best days, he admits, Benfica or Sporting match, the city’s two biggest teams. “Beer and football, that’s all.”

Menus eight euro

The tavern maintains the aesthetics of the early years. Behind the long metal rod there is still a analog scales and an old cash register with a big lever on the side to open the drawer. This place, like most bars still standing in the capital, is understated. a simple menu with a few variations: grilled fish and meat, accompanied by salad, rice, french fries or boiled vegetables. And best of all, at very competitive prices. Many offer menus for just over eight eurosAlthough Melo assures that it is increasingly difficult to face the increase in costs, it is one of the main attractions of such facilities.

“We tried to keep prices, but meat increased 28%, fish 29% and fat twice as high as before. It has increased a lot, but for now I prefer to reduce my profit, which is three or four euros for each plate. “Some of our customers come every day and they notice the loss of purchasing power.” The restaurant has capacity 78 dinnersbetween interior and terrace and employment seven workersAlthough Melo acknowledges that the situation is getting more and more complex and cannot maintain current prices any longer.

A couple at the next table ask for the check after tasting grilled lamb ribs and swordfish fillets. Seconds later, the waiter brings a piece of paper with a handwritten transcript and the final price. “How much, 3,000 euros?” she jokes. For now they are a little more 15 euros per personwith a drink, a dessert and a liquor, although the effects of inflation are already starting to take hold.

tourism support

The return of post-pandemic tourism has given some respite to this tavern whose room appears meticulously divided between the bar where most regular customers sit and old wooden tables. paper tablecloths and glass oil cans where tourists and families stay. At one of the tables, three French couples are enjoying a Portuguese feast: grilled cod, octopus with boiled potatoes, and Seafood Stew. All washed down with a white table wine and under the watchful eye of Melo, who comes from time to time to make sure the guests are entertained.

A few minutes after hitting the legs of the crabs with a small mallet and tasting typical desserts such as ‘bolacha’ cake or chocolate mousse, it’s time for the countdown and the waiter approaches with six shot glasses.

-Well ginjinhaA typical Portuguese liqueur made with cherries.

“Ginji, this is number one!” one of the women at the table exclaims emotionally.

Some sniff with curiosity, until one decides to dive in. swallow the glass in one gulp. “Ginji, ginji, ginji,” they all chant in unison, banging the table in a synchronized beat just before a loud applause. Behind the bar, Melo fills himself the butt of the bottle, toasts them, and air your mouth with your hand after emptying the glass. “He’s strong!” she jokes.

French customers will be the last to leave the building shortly before midnight. Melo does not know if they will return, but the familiar atmosphere of his tavern It will help him stand on his feet. despite the difficulties. “I like that customers feel at home, whether they are tourists or regulars. We Portuguese like to welcome people”.

Source: Informacion

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