In a bustling kitchen, a delicate marble balloon is swiftly handled. Once punctured, its interior cools rapidly, and the chef carves the pieces onto a gleaming silver tray beside the vegetables, ready to be dipped in a shadowy Albufera sauce. The timing is tight, and the sequence unfolds in minutes, all watched by eager diners who often arrive without reservations, their anticipation rising with every passing moment. The dish itself seems like a floating riddle—a dinosaur egg, elegant and light—its impermeable shell concealing the treasure inside.
What lies within is a chicken, a classic called volaille en vessie, a nod to archaeology in the culinary world. Few in France honor this technique, yet in this neighborhood, Albert Boronat at Ambassade in Llivia stands as a beacon for guests seeking a bridge between the new and the old. The restaurant embraces a tradition that some fear to confront, turning it into a living theatre of flavor.
In this ancient method, the ox sac preserves the meat in a way that surprises even seasoned cooks. Since medieval times, the approach remains audacious, inviting a chef with a fearless eye for creative possibility to redefine what a dish can be. The experience feels like stepping into a moment when time loosens its hold on food, and the imagination takes the lead.
Nearby, the island-like atmosphere of Llivia connects to Puigcerdà in the Pyrenees, as if administrative borders briefly dissolve. The moment is captured on a terrace at the embassy, late June, close to a restaurant landmark that once hosted famed pasta recipes.
Melina, born in Brittany, and Albert, born in Tarragona, discovered instant rapport with the space. Their careers spanned stints with renowned chefs in France, and eventually they chose to steer their own lives with a shared vision for cuisine. The idea was not simply food but a dialogue across borders—a celebration of craft that respects tradition while inviting invention.
Albert speaks of reviving French cuisine whose memory had faded in parts of Spain. He jokes about reviving it with a modern flourish, while acknowledging the enduring influence of France’s patisserie heritage—pâté en croûte, pithiviers, and the refined techniques that turn dough into edible cathedrals. The kitchen honors those classics even as it pushes beyond them.
The restaurant’s second tasting of pâté en croûte marks a moment of culinary reflection, a nod to world championships and a deep appreciation for texture, structure, and the balance of meat, pastry, and accompanying sauces. The play of recipes includes Pyrenean beef, tongue, cheeks, and a gribiche that brightens the plate, paired with a glistening broth and a touch of ice wine from a nearby winery.
Yet the centerpiece remains the poulet en vessie, a dish that began as a playful experiment for the owners. Its journey mirrors the broader arc of their culinary philosophy—stories that celebrate memory while inviting new appetites. The lineage of influence traverses chefs and mentors, from Bocuse to Point, a lineage that suggests fame can travel through kitchens as much as through kitchens’ legends.
After the bladder is prepared, about 1,200 grams of Landes chicken are placed inside and the skin is tied with a whisper of truffle oil. The knot is crucial; it must hold, yet delicate enough to withstand the pressure of steam. Temperature and steam work in harmony, expanding the perfume inside while keeping the surface intact.
A quiet kitchen opens into a wide pot, and the process becomes a perceptible ritual. The cook learns through experience how the layers respond, even when the inside remains unseen. Broth is sprayed onto the wrap for hours, enhancing aroma without breaking its gentle veil.
Mélina pierces the ivory balloon and the room fills with a motivating aroma.
From the vessel, the thighs are separated from the breasts and briefly bathed in a pale ice wine sauce with broth, cream, and foie gras. The resulting steam-softened meat presents a Wilted Wilt dish—an impeccable finish that highlights the meat’s tenderness and the dish’s elegance on the table. The effect is awe-inspiring, a reminder that restraint and daring can coexist on one plate.