Marie Claire: Public Support, Layoffs, and a Path to Reinventing a Valencian Textile Icon

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The Valencian textile company Marie Claire remains a frequent recipient of public support, yet its growth and pace of operations have not kept up with rising costs. Based in Vilafranca, the historic label faces ongoing challenges in expanding into new markets and increasing orders and invoicing, as energy prices and the cost of raw materials continue to climb. A large portion of its workforce has been affected by several temporary layoff schemes, slowing production and stability.

Out of a 230-strong team, industry reports indicate that staffing levels now sit at a lean 80 to 90 workers. The B2TEX business group, which acquired Els Ports two years ago, has aimed to align personnel closely with actual demand. This approach seeks to secure liquidity and gradually bring workers back as new business lines take hold. The company has noted renewed activity in its core products—underwear, socks, and swimwear—reflecting a return of orders as demand recovers alongside the company’s efforts to diversify output.

Looking ahead, the workforce faces uncertainty. The ERTE regime, which employs nearly two-thirds of the staff, is scheduled to end in June, with management signaling a return to normal duties starting the following month. Yet it is possible that temporary employment measures will continue if production conditions do not fully stabilize.

The impact of ERTE extends beyond immediate payroll. Affected workers often rely on unemployment benefits during these periods, and some younger staff have chosen to leave the company voluntarily rather than wait for a full recovery. This exodus is compounded by the earlier shutdown of the Borriol plant at the end of 2022 and the agreed departure of around a hundred workers at the start of 2022. Marie Claire’s human resources team has undergone significant changes over the years, with headcount once exceeding 900 but now much smaller as the company recalibrates strategy.

public money

Despite ongoing adjustments and a strategic push to boost overseas sales and strengthen the online channel, Marie Claire’s financial health remains delicate. Over recent years the business has received substantial public assistance, totaling 21 million euros. In mid-2021, the Generalitat Valenciana approved two loans totaling 9.5 million euros, and an additional 12 million euros was granted in June 2022. These funds accompanied a broader plan tied to the company’s acquisition by B2TEX, with the government viewing Marie Claire as a strategic asset in preventing rural depopulation and preserving industrial activity in the interior. The arrangement included conditions to maintain productive operations in Vilafranca and to honor obligations to workers and suppliers, ensuring the company stayed active and solvent.

The loans were designed to support continuity rather than to finance modernization. According to sources close to the company, repayments to suppliers and workers were prioritized, yet there is no indication that the funds were used to upgrade machinery or modernize facilities. Production processes and plant infrastructure have not seen notable improvements in recent years, despite the liquidity provided through these public instruments, raising questions about long-term efficiency gains and the potential for future investment in competitiveness.

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