In February 1978, Iran was experiencing a rare moment of social openness just before the religious revolution that toppled the monarchy of Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi. Miniskirts dotted the streets, and a festive mood filled the air. A publicized event drew attention: a wedding between two men, staged as a secular ceremony with no legal status, yet featuring a ceremonial vows moment, celebrity presence, and ample luxuries.
Everything was arranged to reveal the union of two Iranian men who loved each other. The ceremony took place at a renowned Tehran venue—the luxurious Commodore Hotel. The guest list included artists, actors, officials, and journalists, but photographs from the event were never published. The couple arrived in a carriage drawn by a white horse, and the waitstaff wore pristine white uniforms. From a terrace above, high-society attendees watched the Tehran night unfold.
A few months later, the Ayatollahs seized power with broad popular backing, driven by frustration with the Shah’s political tyranny and excess. Yet the dream of a new Iran quickly turned into a nightmare for many. The new religious regime extended control over every aspect of life, tightly restricting freedoms and enforcing a strict interpretation of Islam. Homosexuality was banned and persecuted, and men accused of leadership roles faced severe penalties, including execution.
A car and even a clergyman
The so-called wedding marked the alliance of two homosexuals from Iran’s high society. One partner, Bijan Safari, was the son of a prominent senator. Safari stood out as an intellectual, painter, and architect, having helped design venues in the capital, including Niavaran Palace. His partner, Sohrab Ruin, was also an architect and part of a well-off family. The story of these eccentric, rebellious celebrations is recounted by Radio Ranginkaman (Rainbow Radio), a Persian-language broadcaster for LGBTI activists across Iran, Afghanistan, and Tajikistan. Some details were later shared by Iranwire via blogger Shaya Goldoust, with permission from EL PERIÓDICO DE ESPAÑA.
Witnesses recall that the ceremony began at nine o’clock at night. The couple walked hand in hand, entering the room in tailored suits and moving through a crowd of spectators. After the ceremony, they rode in a carriage to a nearby park designed by Safari, a gathering spot for the gay community.
At first, the families of the couple did not approve. Over time they accepted the idea, recognizing they could not have a legal marriage, yet they sought to render the event as regal as possible.
The Commodore Hotel, a landmark venue known for its sauna, dining rooms, and dance floors, became a focal point for the festivities. Adjacent venues, such as Şengöl Bar, offered some of the city’s finest cocktails, including martini, vodka, and whiskey.
The guest list featured prominent figures and officials, including a Shah’s nephew and actress Shohreh Aghdashloo, who would later receive an Oscar nomination. Eyewitnesses cited by Iranian media described security as being provided by the Imperial Guard.
Opposition used the gathering to condemn the regime’s corruption. A radio host at the time described how courtiers indulged in pleasure and even staged a controversial ceremony involving two men. Pro-Soviet publications also attacked the event to rally support against the government. The regime later denied the wedding ever occurred.
Attacks against Bijan Safari, the senator’s son, intensified after the wedding. The newlyweds left Iran for a honeymoon in France and never returned. Bijan Safari died in Paris in 2019, while Sohrab Mahvi passed away in the United States shortly after.
Today, Tehran’s Commodore Hotel stands as a government building on Takhte Jamshid Street, near the former U.S. embassy. The embassy’s 1979 occupation by students marked a turning point in Iranian history, with the hostage crisis lasting 444 days.
Gays are quietly coming out in Iran
Despite the severe penalties for homosexuality, covert activism persists. Members of Iran’s LGBTI community continue to speak out in small, courageous ways.
One voice-over captures a public moment: “I am a gay man in Iran and I’m standing in Qom square, one of the most religious cities.” The footage, recorded by many within the community, serves as a form of protest and catharsis. “We exist, even if some find it hard to accept,” says another. “We are human and we live among you.” In some cases, state authorities have denied the very existence of such individuals. The then-president Mahmoud Ahmadinejad once claimed there is no such thing in Iran, underscoring the tension between taboo and truth.