The harvest in 2023 arrived early and was notably scarce, following a season already marked by drought and disruption. Vines across much of Spain showed limited fruit set, and wine production began to falter as the vineyards dried out and grapes dwindled on the shelves. Prices climbed as supply tightened.
Cellers Domenys, a Catalan cooperative established in 1917, reports that it has faced conditions unlike any in its long history. Lluís Roig, the general manager, notes that seven associated wineries collectively manage more than 2,000 hectares of vineyards. The organization, which includes more than 600 partners who contribute capital and labor, is navigating climate-driven stress while relying on a financial arm linked to the government in Catalonia. The cooperative, based in Sant Jaume dels Domenys in Tarragona, observed grape production fall by more than half—from 18 million kilos in 2022 to around 7 million kilos in 2023. Roig describes the year as exceptional and troubling, with drought forcing structural reductions and cost controls.
The 2022 harvest yielded 18 million kilos of grapes and generated 15.5 million kilos in revenue; by 2023, production did not reach 8 million kilos. The cooperative managed to process seven million kilos of grapes, producing about 4.5 million liters of wine. Typically, production would reach twelve million kilos, with half a million liters reserved for Domenio’s own wine and cava brands, first created in 2019. These products already reach nine countries, and there was a plan to expand this line, aiming for five million bottles, while the remaining four million would be marketed in bulk. The cooperative, which more than doubled its revenue last year, posted 15.5 million euros in sales. However, those figures do not necessarily predict 2023 outcomes, as wine prices have surged to offset the fruit shortfall. The general manager chooses not to provide further forecasts for partner protection at the moment.
Bottle prices continued to rise. Roig explains that basic inputs for winemaking—a term used for the raw materials—rose by roughly 70 to 80 percent over the year. He notes that last year’s pricing had different dynamics, with the previous year already having a more favorable price scenario for raw materials.
Yet, the higher prices for wine do not automatically translate into relief for producers. The increase is complex: grapes themselves became markedly more expensive between October and December, and the price trend carried into 2022. This scenario creates a dilemma for bottlers who must pay more for wine without a guaranteed ability to pass those costs fully to consumers. Roig emphasizes that while a producer might expect better returns from higher prices, insufficient grape supply undercuts income resilience. The cooperative’s mission remains to protect its members with fair and stable prices that sustain quality production.
Roig also highlights the emotional toll on rural communities. When farmers see their crops damaged and at risk of failure, it is hard to accept that a year of hard work might not yield fruit in the end.
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Diversifying activities is often a strategic response to crisis. The executive team is pursuing partnerships and diversification strategies to broaden opportunities. A wine tourism zone has been created around an industrial winery known as Vi Cathedral, designed by the architect Cesar Martinell. Visitors will be able to explore wine culture, the Catalan cooperative model, and the legacy of this modernist designer. Guided tours and tastings are planned, though completion depends on public funding and regional support. The team expects these funds to materialize by mid-2024, given the sector’s current pressures. Roig notes that self-financing remains challenging in the current climate.
Despite the uncertain horizon, the focus remains on stabilizing production. The priority is simple and urgent: restore normal output. That is the plan moving forward for the cooperative and its members.