Regulatory Push and the Textile Sector’s Transformation
Europe is intensely pushing the Green Deal into the textile industry. As the sector’s consumption grows, it ranks as a major environmental and climate influencer after food, housing, and mobility. It also places pressure on water, land use, primary raw materials, and greenhouse gas emissions. This shift mirrors the transformation seen earlier in the automotive sector, serving as a core engine for economic change. The goal is high value jobs and a broader impact beyond fashion. The EU strategy on circularity and textiles frames a new approach that pursues durable, repairable, and recyclable products largely made from recycled fibers, free from dangerous substances, and respectful of social and environmental rights. Fast fashion is no longer fashionable in Brussels eyes.
Spain alone faces about 900,000 tons of clothing each year, with roughly 90 percent ending up in landfills. This comes from Moda re sea, a non profit social enterprise cooperative promoted by Cáritas to boost second lives for textiles. The main hurdle to circularity is the garment composition itself. Mixed materials complicate recycling. For instance, viscose is easier to process, while polyester blended with cotton remains stubbornly resistant. The common polycotton mix is pervasive, and its presence is often hidden on labels. Polyester is synthetic, cotton is natural, and the blend creates a challenge for separation. Inditex has just addressed this obstacle with a breakthrough. [Circ, 2023]
Zara, a leading retailer, launched yesterday the first capsule collection created from recycled materials sourced from textile waste made from polyester and cotton blends in eleven countries. The initiative was developed in collaboration with Circ, an American startup focused on textile recycling technology. The investment round included notable funds and supporters aiming to scale Circ’s solutions. The aim remains clear to advance textile circularity and reduce environmental impact. [Circ, 2023]
Circ’s technology is described as capable of separating blended polyester and cotton fibers for the first time. The process involves hydrothermal treatment that liquefies the polyester portion. Heat and pressure then yield two streams: liquid polyester on one side and cotton waste on the other. Recycled cotton becomes pulp flakes and rolls, replacing wood pulp used in virgin lyocell, which feeds future collections. A newly produced polyester material is created from recycled polyester, cutting reliance on fossil resources.
The capsule, comprising a top, blouse, trousers, and shorts, is priced at 39.95 euros. The Zara Woman design team directed the collection, which embraces fluid, light pieces in burgundy tones and emphasizes recyclability at end of life.
This collection serves as a prime example of ongoing research into new fibers and circular methods. The sustainability leader at Inditex has committed to driving industry change by proposing fashion built on cyclical materials across the Zara brand and the broader Arteixo-based group. A spokesperson from Circ described the collaboration as a potential turning point in how consumers view sustainability in fashion. All wardrobe pieces from this initiative are intended to originate from recycled materials and be recyclable. [Inditex, 2023]