The textile waste situation in Catalonia is severe. Municipal waste predominantly ends up in landfills or incinerators. A study conducted by the Institute of Environmental Science and Technology of the Autonomous University of Barcelona, ICTA-UAB, shows that only about one in ten textile waste receives separate collection. In Catalonia, this means roughly 18,630 tonnes of clothing and related textile materials in 2020 were handled through mixed streams rather than through dedicated recycling or reuse channels.
The report, published in Total Environmental Science and authored by researchers Gemma Morell, Laura Talens, and Susana Toboso, sheds light on current textile waste management practices by both citizens and responsible bodies while evaluating environmental impact. The findings indicate that 10 percent is gathered separately through street-level containers, clean points, or door-to-door collection. Around 80 percent is recycled or reused, mainly through thrift stores, flea markets, or other downstream industries. The remaining 20 percent is either incinerated or sent to landfills as inappropriate waste.
About half of the textiles that are recycled or reused stay within Spain, while the other half is exported to countries across Asia, Africa, and the rest of Europe. In this context, the study notes that the primary destinations for used clothing include Pakistan, the United Arab Emirates, Switzerland, and Cameroon. Pakistan alone imported 3,500 tonnes of used clothing from Catalonia in 2020 according to Morell and colleagues in 2020.
Reuse and recycle
Researchers point out that roughly half of textiles deemed suitable for reuse or recycling are exported to lower-income or middle-income regions. When the purpose and destination are unknown, there is concern that this practice shifts the waste problem elsewhere without delivering a sustainable solution, as reported by Morell and coauthors in 2020.
The study analyzes how people behave regarding textile waste separation. Many see the special containers as charitable and assume they are meant for clothes in good condition. As a result, items that seem worn or unusable often end up in the green bin or, worse, the gray bin.
The research finds a lack of awareness that all clothing placed in both special containers and clean points is handled by competent waste-management companies. This means garments in better condition and those in poorer condition can both be repurposed or recycled.
A researcher explains that a cotton T-shirt with holes will not be sold in a second-hand store, yet it can be repurposed into a new garment using recycled yarn. This option is preferable to discarding the item in the gray bin or burning it directly in a landfill, according to Morell and colleagues in 2020.
The environmental impact of textile waste shows that selective collection reduces CO2 equivalents by about 40 percent compared to non-segregated waste streams that head to landfills or incinerators. The carbon footprint for one tonne of clothing managed through non-selective collection runs around 353 kilograms CO2 equivalent, versus about 207 kilograms CO2 equivalent for selectively collected clothing, as reported in 2020 by Morell and collaborators.
Reduce clothing consumption
Proper disposal in the right containers stands out as the most sustainable option. In Catalonia, the average annual clothing consumption per person is about 22 kilograms. Even with ideal selective collection, the environmental impact of discarding clothes per person can resemble the footprint of flying from Barcelona to New York in tourist class seven times, according to Morell and coauthors in 2020.
The researchers call for reduced production and consumption of clothing and a boost in eco-design. Priorities include using single materials and recycled materials from within the textile sector, encouraging durable, high-quality pieces that last longer and can be repaired or reused.
Revitalizing the second-hand market and improving garment repair to extend usable life are essential steps. When a garment finally needs to be discarded, reuse should come first, and if recycling is necessary, it should occur through locally performed processes whenever possible, as noted by Morell and colleagues in 2020.
New European regulations plan a separate collection obligation for textile products in municipalities starting next year. This will require institutions to support separate collection and strengthen the capacity of authorized companies to manage textiles more effectively.
The findings align with warnings issued years ago by the Human NGO Pueblo para Pueblo about Catalonia recovering only 10 percent of discarded clothes for recycling or reuse. They highlighted that about 140,000 tonnes of textile waste are generated annually in the region, with a large portion ending up burned, according to Morell and colleagues in 2020.
Endnotes and references: the study is documented in Total Environmental Science, with core findings summarized from ICTA-UAB researchers. The overall message emphasizes action at both individual and policy levels to curb textile waste and to foster sustainable pathways for reuse, repair, and local recycling.
This material preserves the public interest narrative around textile waste management and is intended to inform readers about current practices, environmental impacts, and practical steps toward a more circular textile economy in Catalonia and beyond.
Note: All statements reflect the cited study and related public reports on textile waste management in Catalonia.