Sustainable Fashion on the 080 Runway: Reborn in Secondhand Style

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Sustainability has moved from a buzzword to a practical starting point for tackling environmental pollution and overproduction. The fashion world is taking notice, insisting it cannot be left behind.

Within this shift, the term upcycling has become a staple in stylistic vocabulary. For the first time, the 080 podium will showcase a parade of secondhand clothing as part of the Government’s commitment to a circular economy. The march, backed by the Agència de Residus de Catalunya, is titled 080 Reborn and will feature the creative direction of Fermin Serret and Gilles Saint Martin. Garments sourced from secondhand stores such as Humana, Le Swing, Pink Flamingo, and Las Pepitas will illuminate the runway. Isaac Peraire Soler, director of the Catalonia Waste Agency, has emphasized collaboration as a key driver. The agency, together with the Catalan Fashion Consortium and the Girbau Group, is promoting a secondhand fashion show at 080 for the first time. The styles are crafted by Fermin+Gilles. A large network of collaborators helped, opening stores and textile waste facilities to gather garments and donate materials, creating a genuinely collective effort. (Attribution: Prensa Ibérica group, El Periódico de Catalunya)

“Reuse in waste management matters because it keeps objects out of the waste stream and slows the production of new items”, observes a spokesperson.

For years, the Agència de Residus de Catalunya has pursued reuse and the circulation of secondhand goods through public campaigns, guides, and financial support. This fashion show marks a progression in that effort. The aim is to elevate reuse as a pathway to waste minimization and to give visibility to the Circular Fashion Pact. Signed in May 2022, this voluntary commitment links institutions and textile sector companies in Catalonia to advance circularity. The pact already boasts 75 signatories, with more expected to join.

The parade’s stylists, Fermin Serret and Gilles Saint Martin, describe the project as exciting because it goes beyond merely hunting for clothes. They highlight collaborations with NGOs and associations that recycle garments to assist people facing social exclusion. Their visits to recycling facilities are especially meaningful, revealing the full process of garment sorting and the benefits of each recycled product type.

Speaking from experience, stylists who have long been secondhand shoppers—from furniture to fashion—note that the work is enjoyable and educational. The reaction from the industry has been positive, according to Peraire, with strong reception from secondhand textile managers, specialized stores, and various fashion sector agencies and media.

“080 Reborn” is described as a collection assembled entirely from recycled textiles sourced from sorting plants and secondhand shops. The aim is to shine a light on these garments and promote textile reuse on a global and social scale. The organizers expect the parade to confer prestige on salvage, sale, and the broader reuse of secondhand clothing.

Both Fermin and Gilles see the project as a community education initiative. They believe such demonstrations can influence consumption habits, encouraging people to enjoy fashion while mindful of planetary needs.

Regarding the surge of secondhand fashion in recent years, the Catalan waste agency’s manager points out that the issue of textile surplus is not new. The industry already ranks as one of the world’s largest resources consumers with substantial environmental impact. He notes a staggering figure: 100,000 million garments are sold worldwide each year. In Catalonia, approximately 22 kilograms of textile waste are produced per person annually, yet only about 2.3 kilograms (11%) are collected through selective recycling. In many households, textiles still end up in residual waste, resulting in about 147,000 tonnes of textile waste discarded yearly and costs around 30 million euros to local authorities. This underscores the environmental footprint linked to textile consumption.

There is a sense of frustration about persistent prejudices toward purchasing secondhand clothing in Spain. Yet the movement is seen as a developing, evolving cultural shift. Barcelona is highlighted as a global reference for secondhand stores, attracting an international audience. Even major brands like Zara are reportedly planning a secondhand collection next year.

When asked what the audience will see on the podium, the designers emphasize diversity and accessibility. They are recreating a range of fashion profiles to show that bold and visually striking looks can be achieved with secondhand garments while proving that these items can be part of everyone’s wardrobe.

The lineup will feature roughly 30 looks, and the cast will reflect broad diversity. Garments are meant for all body types and goals, so the runway will showcase a wide spectrum—from curvy models and silver-haired models to younger fashion enthusiasts of varying sizes, including configurations that span from size 38 to 54 and beyond, with male models also represented across a range of measurements.

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