Valencian innovator Magtech has developed a method to grow cotton without soil, achieving more than 70 percent water savings. This European first will yield fibers of exceptional quality, enabling the production of more sustainable, high-end garments for luxury brands. Traditional cotton production consumes vast amounts of water for both cultivation and textile manufacturing, prompting Magtech to pursue a different path in the textile supply chain.
David René, the company president, described the venture to Efe as an obsession with avoiding potable water in soilless cotton farming. The team has pioneered a technique they call hydroponics to obtain what they claim is the finest cotton fiber on the planet. The plant studied is Gossypium barbadense, commonly known for its premium cotton characteristics.
Fashion: agriculture at the core of industry
René notes that the textile fiber sector moves roughly 150 billion euros annually, and about a quarter of clothing is produced with natural fibers from crops like cotton, flax, bamboo, or leather alternatives. Synthetic fibers such as polyester also play a role in the mix. This broad market insight frames Magtech’s ambition to align fashion with agriculture while reducing environmental impact.
Most garments rely heavily on cotton, highlighting the connection between farming and fashion. The claim here is that fashion can be anchored in agricultural cycles rather than detached from them, a theme René has lived through during more than a decade in the clothing industry. His experiences in Tunisia and Bangladesh exposed the sector’s persistent challenges, from resource pressures to supply chain constraints.
Magtech pursued collaboration with the Supreme Council for Scientific Research to explore soilless cultivation. The aim is to replicate successful soil-free practices used for crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, and lettuce in key regions that include the Netherlands, the United States, Australia, and Japan. The core idea is to supply a textile fiber produced with minimal soil dependency, relying on water and the sixteen essential elements absorbed by leaves and roots. This roadmap has positioned Magtech to commit to its full 2023 and 2024 harvests, with the first clothing items expected early next year.
“Magtech envisions itself as Farmer 3.0, where biotechnology, biochemistry, and engineering fuse to elevate agriculture and create a new class of natural textile fibers for fashion,” René argues, underscoring the blend of science and craft in this venture.
Efficiency, water savings, and scale
The company’ s earliest test in 2021 produced yields far higher than traditional field crops, reporting remarkable water savings. In subsequent years, planting techniques were refined, and 2023 saw the first proof of concept conducted in two greenhouses in Paiporta (Valencia) with support from the Cajamar Foundation, and in Santomera (Murcia) with the CSIC as a partner.
In 2024 Magtech planned two greenhouses totaling about 3,125 square meters. These facilities will integrate photovoltaic systems for self-sufficiency, with irrigation, lighting, and climate control all powered by on-site energy. The company asserts that cotton grown in a soil-free system yields fibers that feel softer and require fewer softeners during dyeing. Early estimates indicate yields of 1.2 kilograms of cotton per plant per year, a leap from the 20–30 grams produced in the field, and a sixtyfold increase in annual yield per plant when paired with the water-saving approach.
René highlights rapid greenhouse growth, noting that plants can quickly reach three meters in height and can be harvested multiple times in two years without replanting. This contrasts with practices in other major cotton-producing regions, where harvesting often means uprooting or discarding plants, contributing to emissions. Magtech emphasizes the potential climate benefits of reducing wasteful harvest practices and emissions associated with traditional cotton farming.
The claim is that the best luxury cotton has historically been tied to the Caribbean, yet Magtech claims to reproduce the ideal growing conditions in controlled greenhouses to produce a superior fiber. The result is a durable, high-quality textile that could redefine luxury fashion supply chains and reduce environmental impact across stages from cultivation to dyeing.
Spain remains a focal point for Magtech, as the company pursues further development and expansion. The startup has received recognition at the VLC Startup Awards organized by the Valencia City Council and has formed supplier relationships with luxury brands across the United Kingdom, France, Switzerland, and Denmark. Exports are already moving toward Italy, and discussions continue with potential buyers in the United States, France, Germany, and Australia. Although the company reports broad acceptance outside of Spain, René notes a slower level of enthusiasm from some domestic firms, which he attributes to differences in perceived quality and willingness to pay for advanced cotton fibers.
Backed by the Lanzadera accelerator, Cajamar Foundation, and the Agro-Rural Innovation Center, Magtech closed the current year with a modest turnover and remains confident about growth in the year ahead. The team remains focused on expanding their biotechnological approach to textiles and bringing soil-free natural fibers to the fashion industry, aiming for broader market access and sustained impact. This analysis reflects ongoing industry interest and the potential for further international collaborations as the project progresses. (Source: Magtech communications and industry discourse.)