California in the kitchen: citrus, avocado and a market-style salad plate

California cooking is loved for a simple reason: it starts with produce that tastes good and then leaves it alone. Oranges, lemons, avocados, tomatoes, herbs, greens, grains and a good olive oil show up on tables from casual lunches to dinner parties. You can borrow the spirit at home, whatever the weather outside.

Choosing the citrus

Winter is citrus season in much of the northern hemisphere, which makes it a lovely time for this plate.

• Oranges. Navel oranges are easy to segment and not too seedy. Blood oranges add colour.
• Lemons. Heavy for their size means juicy. Meyer lemons are sweeter if you can find them.
• Grapefruit and mandarins bring bitter and sweet notes.
• Store them on the counter for a few days, or in the fridge for up to two weeks.

To segment an orange: slice off the top and bottom, stand it on a board, cut away peel and white pith in strips, then slice between membranes to release the pieces. Squeeze the leftover shell for juice in your dressing.

Choosing avocados

• Press gently near the stem. A ripe avocado yields slightly but is not mushy.
• If hard, leave on the counter for a few days. A paper bag with an apple speeds it up.
• If ripe too early, move it to the fridge for a couple of days.
• To keep cut avocado green, press lemon or lime juice onto the surface and cover tightly with the cut side down.

The market-style plate

The idea is a big platter of separate piles, not a tossed salad. Guests build what they like. For six people:

1. Greens. Two big handfuls of arugula or butter lettuce, dressed lightly.
2. Citrus. Segments from 3 oranges and a grapefruit, with their juices.
3. Avocado. Two or three, sliced just before serving, with flaky salt.
4. Something crunchy. Radishes, shaved fennel or cucumber.
5. Something hearty. A cup of cooked quinoa or farro, or a can of chickpeas, rinsed and tossed in oil and lemon.
6. Protein, if you like. Grilled shrimp or chicken, a soft-boiled egg, or crumbled feta or fresh goat’s cheese.
7. Toppings. Toasted pumpkin seeds or almonds, a handful of herbs such as mint, parsley or basil.
8. Bread with olive oil for dipping.

Arrange everything on one big board or platter, and put the dressing in a jug.

A bright dressing

Whisk together:

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons lemon or orange juice
• 1 teaspoon honey or maple syrup
• 1 small garlic clove, grated, or a spoon of finely chopped shallot
• Salt and pepper

Taste on a lettuce leaf, not off the spoon, and adjust. It keeps in a jar in the fridge for up to five days.

Timing for a host

• Morning: make the dressing, cook the grains, wash and dry the greens.
• An hour before: segment the citrus, slice the crunchy vegetables, chill everything.
• Just before serving: slice the avocado, dress the greens lightly, arrange the platter.

Everything except the avocado can be done ahead, which is why this plate suits a relaxed lunch.

What can go wrong

• Soggy greens. Dry them very well and dress at the last minute.
• Brown avocado. Slice late and use plenty of acid.
• Bitter citrus. Remove all white pith, and add a little more honey.
• Allergies. Nuts, seeds, shellfish and cheese are common triggers. Put them in separate bowls and label them.
• Pesticides and washing. Wash citrus under running water before you zest it.

Looking for more ideas from kitchens around the world? See our around the world section.

It is food that looks like sunshine on a platter, and it asks very little of the cook except good shopping and a sharp knife.