Plov at home: the great rice dish of Central Asia

Plov, also spelled pilaf or palov, is a beloved rice dish across Central Asia and many neighbouring regions. It appears at weddings, holidays and ordinary Sunday lunches, and each family and region has its own way of making it. At its heart it is simple: meat, carrots, onions and rice cooked together until every grain is glossy and tender.

The idea

Plov is built in layers. First you make a rich base of fried onion, meat and carrots called a zirvak. Then you add rice and water, steam it gently and rest it. The carrots are traditionally cut into long matchsticks, not grated, so they stay sweet and distinct.

Ingredients (serves 6 to 8)

• 700 g lamb or beef with some fat and bone (shoulder or shank), cut into large chunks
• 150 ml neutral oil, or a mix of oil and rendered lamb fat
• 2 large onions, sliced into half-moons
• 700 g carrots, cut into thin sticks about 5 mm wide
• 500 g long-grain rice (see below)
• 1 whole head of garlic, outer papery skins left on, top trimmed
• 2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds
• 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
• Optional: dried barberries, raisins or a dried red chilli
• About 700 ml hot water

Which rice?

Rice is the key. Choose a firm, long-grain rice that does not turn mushy. Many people look for rice labelled for plov at Central Asian or Middle Eastern grocers. If you cannot find it, use good long-grain or parboiled rice, and avoid sushi or arborio rice, which turn sticky.

Rinse the rice in several changes of cold water until the water runs almost clear, then soak it in warm salted water for 30 minutes to an hour. Drain just before using.

Method

1. Heat the oil in a heavy pot with a lid (a Dutch oven is perfect) until it shimmers.
2. Brown the meat on all sides for about 10 minutes.
3. Add the onions and cook, stirring, until deep golden, about 12 to 15 minutes. This colour is the flavour.
4. Add the carrots on top. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, stirring now and then, until they soften.
5. Season with salt and half the cumin. Pour in about 400 ml hot water, just enough to cover. Simmer, covered, over low heat for 45 minutes to an hour, until the meat is tender. This is your zirvak.
6. Level the surface and spread the drained rice evenly on top. Do not stir. Pour in hot water gently until it stands about 2 cm above the rice, add the garlic head, the rest of the cumin and any barberries or raisins.
7. Cook uncovered on medium-high until the water has nearly cooked off and you can see steam holes, about 10 to 12 minutes.
8. Make holes in the rice with a spoon handle, nestle in the garlic, then cover tightly. Turn the heat to the lowest setting and steam for 20 minutes.
9. Rest off the heat, covered, for 10 minutes.
10. Mix and serve. Gently toss the rice with the meat and carrots, and pile on a big platter with the garlic and meat on top.

Serving

Plov is usually served with a fresh salad of tomatoes, onion and herbs, dressed lightly with salt and a little vinegar, along with flatbread and hot black or green tea. The sharpness of the salad cuts through the rich rice.

What can go wrong

• Mushy rice. Too much water or the wrong rice. Add water carefully, and do not stir after the rice goes in.
• Hard rice. Not enough steaming time or lid not tight. Add a few spoons of hot water, cover and steam 10 minutes more.
• Pale colour. Brown the onions and carrots more. Patience at that stage matters most.
• Burnt bottom. Use the lowest heat and a heavy pot. A little crust is wanted, burnt is not.
• Dietary needs. Plov is traditionally made with lamb or beef, but a vegetarian version with chickpeas and extra carrots is warming. If you cook for guests who avoid pork or meat, say what is in the pot.

For the host

Plov is a dish for sharing. Serve it from one big platter in the middle of the table and let people help themselves. It reheats well with a splash of water, covered, over low heat.

For more dishes from kitchens near and far, see our around the world section.

It takes a little time, but the smell of cumin and caramelised onion alone is worth it, and the dish rewards a table with people to share it.