Eating seasonally in a Canadian winter: roots, preserves and braises

Winter eating in Canada can feel like a long list of things you cannot have. It looks different once you stop comparing it to July. This is the season of dense, sweet roots, slow braises and the jar you put up in August. Done well, it is some of the best food of the year.

What keeps, and keeps well

Many vegetables are bred, or simply happen, to store for months in cool conditions. The usual winter pantry includes:

• Roots: carrots, parsnips, beets, turnips, rutabaga (swede), celeriac
• Alliums: onions, garlic, shallots, leeks
• Squash and pumpkin: butternut, acorn, spaghetti, kabocha
• Cabbages: green and red cabbage, which last surprisingly long
• Potatoes: many varieties, especially thick-skinned ones
• Apples and pears: late varieties that hold up well in cold storage

Availability varies by region, so check what your local farm stands, markets and grocers carry. Our tips for shopping a farmers’ market with a plan apply just as well in November.

How to store them at home

Not everyone has a cellar. You can still do a lot.

1. Keep roots cool, dark and a little humid. A cold room, a garage that stays above freezing or the bottom of the fridge are all options.
2. Store onions, garlic and squash in a dry place, not in the fridge. Keep them away from potatoes, which release moisture.
3. Remove the green tops from carrots and beets before storing. They draw moisture out of the root.
4. Keep potatoes in the dark. Light turns them green, and green potato skin should be cut away generously or discarded.
5. Check weekly. One soft onion can spoil the bag.

Three kinds of cooking that suit the season

Roasting

Roots caramelise beautifully at 200 degrees C. Cut them into similar-sized pieces, toss with oil and salt, and roast on a wide tray with space between pieces for 35 to 45 minutes, turning once. Finish with a squeeze of lemon or a drizzle of vinegar to lift the sweetness.

Braising

A braise is the great gift of winter. Brown a cheaper cut of meat or a pan of beans and onions, add stock or wine, cover and cook gently for a couple of hours.

• Beef short ribs, chuck, pork shoulder and chicken thighs all suit it.
• Add carrots, parsnips and celeriac in the last hour so they hold their shape.
• Cook until the meat is tender when poked with a fork. Pork and beef are safe when properly cooked through, and poultry should reach 74 degrees C in the thickest part.
• Braises are usually better the next day.

Soup

Almost any root can become soup. Sweat an onion, add chopped roots and stock, simmer until soft, then blend. Squash with a little ginger, or carrot with a spoonful of curry paste, take about 40 minutes from start to finish.

Preserves earn their place

If you made jam, pickles or tomatoes in the summer, this is when they pay off. If you did not, shops and markets often sell good local jars.

• A spoon of pickled beets or cabbage cuts through the richness of a braise.
• Tomatoes in a jar make a fast sauce in January.
• Apple butter or fruit jam goes into yoghurt, porridge or a dessert.
• Sauerkraut and other ferments add crunch and tang. Our guide to pickling and quick ferments is a good starting point.

Home canning needs tested recipes and proper processing, so follow a trusted source and do not improvise with low-acid foods.

Keep it interesting

The risk with winter food is sameness. A few small habits help.

• Change the cut. The same carrot is different shaved raw, roasted in wedges or mashed.
• Add something sharp: vinegar, lemon, pickles, mustard or fresh herbs from a windowsill.
• Add something crisp: toasted seeds, breadcrumbs, a raw cabbage slaw.
• Try a grain like barley or spelt for texture. See our look at ancient grains in a modern kitchen.
• Treat greens as a seasonal treat. Hardy kale, collards and Brussels sprouts hold up in the cold.

What can go wrong

• Roots that go woody. Old parsnips and turnips can be tough at the core. Cut that part out.
• Bitter squash or sprouting potatoes. If a squash tastes bitter, do not eat it. Cut away sprouts from potatoes, and discard any that are soft and green.
• Bland braises. Brown well, season in layers and finish with acid.
• Overbuying. Buy what you can store and cook within a couple of weeks, then return.

A slow season, on purpose

Eating seasonally in winter is less about restriction than about rhythm. The pot is on a bit longer, the table is warmer, and the lunch is whatever the cellar offers. For more ideas, wander through our eat local section.

This article offers general food-safety information, not medical advice. If you have a health condition or allergy, consult your doctor.