Ancient grains in a modern kitchen: baking and cooking with spelt, emmer and barley
Spelt, emmer and barley turn up more often on shop shelves and farmers’ market tables, and they are worth a spot in your pantry. They taste of something: nutty, a little sweet, a little earthy. They cook differently from white rice and white flour, so a few ground rules help.
Who is who
- Spelt is a wheat relative with a nutty, mild flavour. It comes as whole berries, flour and flakes. Its flour works in many baking recipes.
- Emmer (sometimes sold as farro, though the word farro can refer to more than one grain, so check the label) is chewy and rich. It is excellent in soups and salads.
- Barley is chewy and slightly sweet. Pearl barley is polished and cooks faster. Hulled barley has more bran and takes longer.
A note for anyone avoiding gluten: spelt, emmer and barley all contain gluten. They are not safe for people with coeliac disease, and are not a gluten-free alternative to wheat. If you have a health concern, ask your doctor or dietitian. This article is general cooking information, not medical advice.
Cooking the whole grains
All three cook like pasta: boil them in plenty of salted water, then drain.
- Rinse the grains in a sieve.
- Optional soak. Soaking whole spelt or emmer overnight cuts the cooking time and makes them a little more tender.
- Boil in about 3 parts water to 1 part grain.
- Timing (approximate, check the packet): pearl barley 25 to 35 minutes, hulled barley 45 to 60 minutes, whole spelt or emmer 30 to 50 minutes if unsoaked, shorter if pearled or soaked.
- Taste a grain. It should be tender with a pleasant chew, not hard in the middle.
- Drain, toss with oil or butter and season.
Make a big batch and keep it in the fridge for up to five days. Cooked grains freeze well in portions.
Ways to use them
- Soup: barley in beef or mushroom soup thickens it gently and gives a rich texture.
- Grain salad: cooked emmer or spelt with roasted squash, parsley, lemon, toasted nuts and a bit of cheese makes a lunch that holds well.
- Risotto-style: use pearl barley or pearled spelt in place of rice, adding warm stock in stages. It takes longer than rice but stays pleasantly chewy.
- Breakfast porridge: cook flakes or coarsely cracked grains with milk or water and a pinch of salt, then top with fruit or honey.
- Side dish: simmer in stock with onion and herbs instead of rice.
Baking with spelt flour
Spelt flour is the easiest way to start.
- Swap carefully. Start by replacing 25 to 50 percent of the wheat flour in a recipe. Whole spelt flour can absorb a bit differently, so keep a little extra liquid on hand.
- Do not over-knead. Spelt gluten is more delicate and can break down if worked too long. Mix until combined, then rest.
- Quick breads, muffins and pancakes take to spelt especially well because they do not depend on a strong gluten structure.
- Bread: a dough with 30 to 50 percent spelt, the rest bread flour, gives a tender, nutty loaf. A longer, slower rise in the fridge improves flavour.
A simple starter: for your usual pancake recipe, replace half the flour with spelt. You will notice the nuttier taste right away.
Where to find them
Natural food stores, bulk shops and farmers’ markets often carry them. Some Canadian farms and mills grow and mill their own grains, and buying local flour tends to be fresher. Store whole grain flours in the fridge or freezer, since the oils in the germ can go stale.
What can go wrong
- Gummy barley. Overcooked or not rinsed. Drain well.
- Hard centres. Cook longer or soak first.
- Dense baking. Too much spelt too quickly, or too much mixing.
- Bland results. Salt the cooking water and finish with acid, such as lemon or a splash of vinegar.
Treat them as new friends: try a spoonful, see if it suits your table, and add more over time. For more everyday kitchen ideas, see our home cooking section.