Onions, turnip greens and horse mackerel: ‘bad cooking’ enters Michelin Olympus

A simple onion, the ubiquitous Cinderella prescriptionsserving Javier Olleros to glorify cuisine through the use of produce from the rich land of O Grove (Pontevedra), where coveted seafood or Galician steak stand out vegetables, vegetables and fruits sprouting in his garden.

“We are determined save our roots“, proudly proclaims the chef of the restaurant Culler de pau (Wooden Spoon), where he made history by making the first restaurant in Galicia to receive two Michelin stars.

Javier Olleros, a restless mind swapping high heels for the stoveHe participated in Cervezas 1906’s Imperfectxs: Gastronomy for an Immense Minority project, currently featuring Diego Guerrero, Pepe Solla, Ángel León and Vicky Sevilla.

In the ‘master class’ he elevated the virtues of the earth, the onion, vilified content in the kitchen scene Galician where vegetables are pushed to a secondary place, but take the main role in its menu.

It uses an autochthonous variety from the sweeter Vilanova de Arousa; Fry and cut in half, cover with potato chips and a thin slice of bacon, and garnish with a dash of black garlic and tarragon leaves. To go with horse mackerel juice.

“We care about the product itself, not the commercial value of the items. Curiously, This is one of the dishes that people stand out the most.“Olleros came forward with his wife and partner at Culler de Pau, Amaranta Rodríguez.

Two other recipes in which he exalts himself ‘poor kitchen’ to temple of gastronomy gods has been: a turnip with three broths (from pork shoulder, tomato juice and kombu seaweed), an example of using young turnip leaves, an unused ingredient; and one infusion with aromatic herbs, wheat and flax from the gardenfor him, it’s a dish that represents the luxury of being able to take it spontaneously, with freshness and intimacy, and bring it straight from the farm to the table.

“Sustainability is not a goal to be achieved. It is a journey to take by changing small gestures that will help you change your thinking: first individually, then collectively,” Olleros insisted.

sailor also horta

“Everything in my life has an Atlantic influence; the effect of this beautiful estuary full of variety,” he added, before revealing the secrets of a recipe that is purely simplicity and flavor: mussels on soft ground, halophilic herbs picked just a hundred meters from the restaurant, nuances of trout, purslane and citrus.

Culler de Pau is a man’s will to save the past with an innovative perspective and sometimes even radical. Javier Olleros is rescuing forgotten autochthonous varieties, working with local suppliers and collaborators such as farmer Antonio Cavada (owner of the El Calabacín Rojo garden) or Doña Alba of the Caroeiras collective dedicated to the conservation of autochthonous species. seeds.

He also set up a small vegetable garden with a greenhouse to integrate the products collected on the day the restaurant will enjoy into the offer: “It was self-explanatory: it allowed us to open a door to the undoubted future”. It is something that “makes us sensitive, informs us”. Olleros has the distinguished assistance of Pedro Revilla, a researcher at the Galicia Biological Mission, an organization with a very important germplasm bank. replaces the more productive ones.

Source: Informacion

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