Over the last month, Russian models have appeared in campaigns for several major brands. Most recently, campaigns from Burberry and Thom Browne featured Maria Cage, Sofia Steinberg posed for Givenechy, Daria Koshkina represented Loewe, Vasilina Kiriyenko showcased the Bershka collection, and Alesya Kafelnikova appeared for Bulgari, signaling continued international demand for Russian modeling talent.
Simultaneously, Russian modeling agencies have kept their social media channels highly active, with Avant Models among the most prolific, sharing near daily updates from fashion shoots and new collections. These posts help illustrate how Russian models continue to secure international work despite shifting geopolitical perceptions in Western markets, a nuance acknowledged by industry insiders. For instance, Alina Khaustova, reservations officer for the international department of Ru models, notes ongoing long-term engagements with varied clients abroad and speaks of markets including Italy, France, Germany, Spain, Turkey, the USA, Korea, Japan, Thailand, and China.
Yana Shmailova, head of Linden Staub East, confirms her agency’s models are actively working overseas as well. She highlights new destinations gaining traction, such as Turkey, which has seen an uptick in assignments that were less common before.
Commenting on personal experiences, Elizaveta Stasenko, who spent about a month working abroad in the spring, says that Russians in Turkey were treated normally and that many Russian models are currently active there. She points out that Ukrainian models also found equal footing, and says that overall, the climate remained positive for Russian talent in that market.
Nevertheless, some models report selective access rather than outright discrimination. They describe cases where knowledge of citizenship affected work opportunities, with some opportunities disappearing after agencies learned the models’ origins. A notable instance involved a Diesel show in Tokyo where a Russian contestant was not included, despite being in the running for the Fall-Winter 2022/23 collection re-exhibition. A model recounts that the casting included some Russian applicants but ultimately did not place any Russian models on the lineup.
Looking at Japan, Lomzheva notes that major brands there appear increasingly cautious and often inquire about citizenship before casting. In South Korea, late February through early March brought sharper scrutiny. Lomzheva recalls that the mere mention of Russia could trigger visible discomfort among clients, making it awkward to disclose nationality. Some casting experiences left a lingering sense of exclusion, with models from other countries sometimes favored after their origins were clarified.
In some casting rooms, models from Ukraine or other nations were preferred over Russian competitors, sometimes leading to a lack of acknowledgment or attention from buyers. A participant described a scene where clothes were offered initially, only to be withdrawn moments later, as if national origin had become a barrier in the room’s informal exchange. The broader takeaway is that nationality matters at certain events, influencing seating, fittings, and ultimately participation.
Today, demand for Russian models abroad remains stable and shows signs of gradual growth. Industry insiders cite two main hurdles: the logistics of moving talent to Europe and Asia, and the higher costs involved. Routes often involve flying from Istanbul or crossing land borders through Finland or Lithuania, with organizers increasingly screening for financial feasibility before committing to contracts. In many cases, agencies prefer portfolios that clearly demonstrate the model’s ability to cover travel and accommodation expenses, reflecting the practical realities of international work.
Competition in the field remains intense, a reality amplified by Covid-related travel restrictions and a concentration of seasoned models with strong portfolios. This makes it tougher for newcomers to break in, according to Yana Shmailova. The outlook for modeling activity within Russia has similar dynamics, with robust opportunity but equally fierce competition. Moscow remains a hub where major brands and clients cluster, yet even there income stability is not guaranteed amid market fluctuations. Industry leaders caution that a stable pipeline abroad contrasts with local certainty, underscoring a cautious approach to earnings in the home market.
Observers note a recent softening in certain segments of the market, with some agencies reporting a brief dip around late February and March, followed by a normalization of activity. According to executives from Linden Staub East and other agencies, the industry shows signs of returning to typical rhythm, even as markets adjust to evolving demand and cost considerations. The overall message from the modeling community is that while work remains available, it now travels through a more selective and logistical lens, prioritizing models with compelling portfolios and the capacity to manage travel demands without compromising production timelines.