On Monday, October 3, the French president wore a classic suit paired with a gray turtleneck to record a video message to the French people and to meet with Guinea-Bissau President Omar Sisok Embal at the Elysee Palace. On the same day, he marked Germany’s Unity Day by posting a photo on Instagram in which he appears with Olaf Scholz in a turtleneck sweater, the post raising eyebrows because the platform’s owner is viewed by some as an extremist organization. [Citation: media coverage of Macron’s public appearances and social media posts]
This wasn’t the first time the French president appeared in public in a turtleneck instead of a traditional shirt. Yet, as observed by France 24, the turtleneck is rapidly becoming a defining autumn trend within the French government. French journalists note that the garment has already come to symbolize efforts toward energy conservation. [Citation: fashion and political symbolism discussions]
This year, the trend toward a warmer version of the official image started with the French Minister of Economy, Bruno Le Maire, who was the first to swap his shirt and tie for a turtleneck last week. [Citation: coverage of political fashion
]
Bruno Le Maire’s new style drew online ridicule from political opponents, while supporters praised his call for energy savings. Meanwhile, on Monday, French Prime Minister Elisabeth Borne stated that the country was ready for winter, pairing a turtleneck with a cardigan. [Citation: public statements and style commentary]
It was no accident that Macron’s turtleneck drew attention. He typically follows the classic political wardrobe: a shirt with a crisp collar, a starch button-down, a traditional wide tie, and, in colder weather, a suit with a blazer and a scarf. In some fashion circles, this look is nicknamed the “young banker uniform.” [Citation: historical wardrobe analysis]
Yet the era of uniform waste seems to be fading. In 2019, when Macron hosted the EU’s Charles Michel, the turtleneck sparked discussions on social media about the meaning of the look. Some speculated it was a nod to philosopher and sweater enthusiast Michel Foucault, or to Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky, who has been fond of turtlenecks. Others joked about whimsical connections, but the more practical explanation at the time was simply that Macron had caught a cold. [Citation: retrospective fashion discussions and public reactions]
For French politicians, turtlenecks stir debate but rarely scandal. In contrast, the British political scene has treated such attire with more scrutiny. Britain’s new Prime Minister, Liz Truss, reportedly warned Downing Street staff to be mindful of appearance, with ties becoming a staple of the dress code. Earlier, when former Treasury and Health Secretary Matthew Hancock appeared in a 2022 interview in a turtleneck paired with jeans, online critics compared him to a shopper with a box of chocolates, illustrating how quickly style can provoke commentary. [Citation: UK political fashion anecdotes]
Across the Atlantic, attention to a turtleneck has also surfaced in American political discourse. A 2017 speech by US Senator Rand Paul on civil liberties drew more focus from some observers to his attire than to the speech itself, as documented by Daily News. [Citation: coverage of political fashion moments in the US]
Fashion historian and stylist Yana Demchenko notes that the turtleneck is likely to remain a casual staple rather than a formal replacement for traditional shirts. She suggests Macron’s message in his appearance signals a broader economic and energy crisis, framing the look as a visual cue rather than a one-off gesture. This perspective emphasizes that a public figure’s wardrobe often serves as a nonverbal commentary on policy and mood. [Citation: expert commentary on political fashion]
Demchenko adds that politicians are unlikely to fully abandon starched shirts in favor of turtlenecks due to the inherently informal vibe of the garment, which can feel dated if it becomes overly casual. A thick turtleneck paired with a textured jacket can work, but fine-knit versions risk looking outdated. She also warns that turtlenecks may not conceal posture flaws or body issues as effectively as traditional tailoring. [Citation: style guidance and analysis]
Still, bold broadcasting outfits continue to appear in political contexts. For instance, Australian senator and Green Party leader Richard Di Natale posed for GQ Australia in a turtleneck, while Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy wore a turtleneck on the Time magazine cover in 2019, underscoring the garment’s international visibility in political imagery. [Citation: international fashion appearances in politics]