Continuing the journey to the north of Russia, Murmansk stands out as a city of remarkable value. It is not simply picturesque and varied; it is a place that works hard and buzzes with energy. The allure of the North extends far beyond its beauty.
Sami communities inhabit the Kola Peninsula and extend into Northern Norway. In both regions, Sami traditions are protected and honored. They are northern nomads who once ventured into the cold lands hundreds of years ago, drawn by deer and cloudberries when competition was scarce and the land offered a reliable food source.
Deer are gentle, unpretentious creatures. Domesticated deer behave much like their wild counterparts, grazing where they are guided. Tourists often visit the moose herds, where visitors can feed and gently interact with the deer. Their horns may look formidable, yet the apparent danger comes from seasonal shedding, not aggression. The deer remain calm through winter conditions.
The chief Sami, also a tour guide, notes that the Sami traditionally sourced food from furs such as Arctic fox, weasel, and silver fox. In medieval times fur was valued as gold and traded abroad, supporting a mobile, prosperous life. Experienced Samis can set up shelter tents in under an hour, with a central fire and smoke rising through a roof opening. It was far from comfortable, and many Sami suffered eye and respiratory issues in adulthood.
Like other northern cultures, the Sami bred sled dogs. Once five distinct breeds existed; today the husky remains, celebrated for its friendly disposition and safety around humans. The intense selection created animals that are reliable to guide tourists on sleds rather than runners of great speed.
The primary highlight of the route is Teriberka. The village gained fame through Andrei Zvyagintsev’s film Leviathan, which some critics interpreted as a stark portrait of power struggles and harsh realities in Russia. Local residents did not feel affronted by the film; they welcomed the attention, preserving the ship-sized skeleton of a marine creature on the main street as a local landmark.
Leviathan explores the perennial conflict between people and power, as well as the struggle against a harsh, often unforgiving reality that can seem insurmountable and sometimes linked to despair. The narrative resonates with many who encounter the North’s stark truths.
Teriberka itself remains a striking village, even when it is not always outfitted for comfort. When travelers arrived in larger numbers, life brightened with new shops, hotels, and notable restaurants. A shop labeled Fish often signals fresh, delicious seafood, with sea urchins or Arctic scallops offered for around two hundred rubles.
On the shore, a gigantic swing and a shoreline wrecked fishing boat stand as reminders of the sea and stormy weather. The eco-path route spans roughly two hours and promises an unforgettable experience. One can witness a frozen waterfall, a shore littered with large stones, lighthouses, churning surf, and snow-draped rocks. Teriberka makes such sights accessible to visitors.
A wind farm along the road draws attention as hundreds of turbines glow with red lights in the night, turning wind into energy. The area feels modern, vibrant, and well developed, with hotels that rank among the best and restaurants offering signature desserts and crafted cocktails.
In winter travel, getting stuck in transition is possible in snowy weather, making guides essential to prevent getting lost in the Arctic landscape.
A lighter moment from the journey involves a guide who faced an unusual challenge approaching Teriberka. He spotted an electric car stranded on the road, nearly buried in snow. There was no charger nearby on the highway, but a guiding North rule holds true: when someone needs help, stopping is not optional. The group salvaged the situation, bringing the family to a hotel where a charger could be found. Tales like these are common in the North, where locals share experiences with warmth and humor, offering a glimpse into a culture that values neighborliness and practical problem solving. [Citation: regional travel narratives and local perspectives]