Do people confuse value with price when evaluating a product?
-Quique Dacosta: Yes, value is a gastronomic value. Price does not define gastronomic value; it reflects factors like supply, demand, and scarcity. Even different places, such as Dénia and Ibiza, aren’t the same.
-Rafa Zafra: At El Bulli, seasonal mackerel is given the same care as shrimp.
The product now appears more valuable than ever. What is this for?
-QD: The product is present in every restaurant. It matters whether it is a dining room or a bar counter where mussels are prepared, because the product is our color palette. What has shifted is the product’s physical relevance.
What has changed is the figurative representation; before the crayfish was simply cooked, but now it gains visibility, as ventresca was introduced.
-RZ: Today this cuisine has become highly professional, sometimes applying advanced culinary knowledge.
What is your favorite product?
-RZ: Dénia red shrimp. A forceful, intense flavor. The last taste I would want to leave behind is the memory of a shrimp from Dénia. She is the emblem of gastronomy because it is best enjoyed on its own. I also admire sea urchins, though they require more careful preparation.
-QD: Salt, to me, represents the essence of the sea and civilization with its healing properties and Mediterranean protection.
Which region holds more appeal, the Mediterranean or the Atlantic?
QD: Why choose one when both matter? There seems to be a comfort in seeking local products, yet the Bay of Biscay offers extraordinary seafood as well.
-RZ: The Mediterranean is a way of life: sharing, joy, everyday meals. I frequently use Mediterranean ingredients but I also keep an eye on the Bay of Biscay, Galicia, and Huelva. About seventy percent comes from the Mediterranean, while the remaining thirty percent is a guest presence.
Markets and wholesalers often auction the product daily. Who ends up with the best deals, and who pays a premium to secure supply?
-RZ: Some suppliers target certain restaurants, but a successful operation depends on knowing how to buy, handle, and sell. The key is to demand and be decisive.
-QD: Selling to Estimar matters, but there should be a match between buyer and supplier. Some offer slightly lower prices because I buy constantly, paying daily. Mutual care matters more than marketing.
We’re discussing very expensive perishables like shrimp, lobster, and crayfish. How does a high-end restaurant manage its pantry to prevent waste?
-RZ: We know what to sell. Estimar Madrid and Barcelona are not under surveillance; we restock daily and stay truthful about what was bought. In Jondal, where we once handled 300, we learned the art of manipulating stock to sell or save.
Quique Dacosta: We must respect bans and prohibited products
When discussing the product, does interest in fish and shellfish get throttled too much?
-QD: It seems obvious to me, given my world centers on vegetables and the sea. When Bittor Arginzoniz joined, we called for an approach that Llisa Negra also feeds meat and vegetables into the mix.
-RZ: Vegetables have become more valuable as seasons arrive. We anticipate artichokes and white asparagus, the signals of seasonal abundance.
Does size matter?
-QD: It largely depends on the visual cue. A tiny octopus versus a large Norwegian lobster catches the eye. Customers must be informed. Peas should be small, but shrimp should not exceed about 40 grams rather than 70.
-RZ: A lobster weighing 800 grams is excessive; 2.5 kilos of shell might be more appropriate in certain contexts.
Can creative cooking be achieved without erasing the product’s personality?
-RZ: I think so.
-QD: It surely can. For instance, Rafa’s Estimar showcases creative cuisine; a signature dish is instantly recognizable as his, and any imitation in Galicia would feel like a copy. Authenticity remains essential.
Is it harder to find someone who never spoils a Norwegian lobster than the chef who can handle a simple rice dish?
-RZ: Precision is required, and that is not easy.
-QD: Llisa Negra enjoys a higher cook rate per customer than other establishments.
From hush-hush private to Instagram famous, caviar now pops up everywhere. What’s the point?
-RZ: We enjoy satisfying the guest’s ego. Fried anchovies excite us, but if guests crave caviar, we provide it. Prices have dropped with good availability, yet there are more affordable options.
What are your thoughts on farmed fish?
-QD: Everything has value if quality is high. The world cannot rely only on seafood to feed everyone forever.
-RZ: Not every consumer can access sea bream.
Are you using farmed fish?
-RZ: I am not inclined to use it.
-QD: It isn’t the approach in Dénia, though there is a restaurant where sea bass or other varieties might be served.
Quique Dacosta: I enjoy taking market fish and elevating them with gastronomic value
-How about a controversial catch?
-QD: There isn’t enough grounds for a firm opinion yet.
-RZ: Compliance and restraint matter; there is a stronger emphasis on responsibility and thoughtful practices.
Is using bycatch a way to value all fish or to promote non-selective fishing?
-QD: The aim is to add value to market fish, and if that works, it becomes our mission. A few years ago, duck prawns cost seven euros; today they can reach twenty-seven after innovative preparations. Observers notice the choices and begin to value them.
Is lobster or olive curing more profitable?
-RZ: In Tickets, a kitchen with forty staff demonstrates the scale of manpower required for this level of cuisine.
What would you say about three restaurants serving sea-date dishes in the community?
-QD: Product prohibitions must be observed, and endangered items should not be touched.
-RZ: Sure, yet not as a cook but as a restaurateur. When dining, if such offerings appear, one should decline.
Embers are fashionable. Do they fit the product?
-RZ: They are a tool that can help convey information. The best technique remains fried preparation.