Rethinking Sustainability in Galician Textiles Amid EU and National Funding Debates
The challenges facing the textile sector in Galicia intersect with broader European Union priorities for sustainable industry and the push to protect historical integrity in European policy. A national program known as the Economic Recovery and Transformation Strategic Project has earmarked funds to promote sustainable processes such as eco design, waste management, and digitization. Governments are guiding companies toward circular economy investments, directing them to channels where approximate aid totals can be accessed. A total allocation is roughly 150 million euros, intended to support these transitions.
The plan has drawn mixed reactions. Alberto Rocha, secretary general of the Galician Fashion Textile Cluster (Cointega), notes that the funding is “very modest” in relation to the ambitions held for the sector. He insists more funds could be pledged once initial resources are exhausted and highlights a notable problem: there were few calls for this plan in its early phase. He adds that the current plan does not align with expectations, as the industry actively advocated for stronger support, including specific measures for textiles, even though some action was taken in favor of related sectors. The sector remains hopeful that the situation will improve as measures are clarified and implemented.
Rocha stresses that nothing is final yet. There was a formal declaration of interest submitted to both the Ministry of Industry and the Ministry of Ecological Transformation. A Textile and Fashion Observatory has been established to monitor progress, offering ongoing oversight from a central hub. He questions why textiles were not singled out for a dedicated Perte program, suggesting that political decisions shape such allocations. He emphasizes that the industry and its unions have mobilized, but resources must be prioritized to address broad structural needs.
In March, the Galician Parliament approved a measure proposed by the People’s Group seeking an alternative to a textile Perte. There is an awareness that changes will arise from Cointega’s influence, with some reforms identified as very important due to market dynamics and some driven by EU regulations. The move toward sustainability is expected to render certain processes more expensive because it requires new infrastructure. An association has already formed in Spain to oversee and coordinate the entire waste management cycle. Larger companies will face greater challenges, but they also possess more resources to tackle them.
Rocha expresses concern about higher costs and stricter requirements that may affect national brands more than foreign competitors. He argues for consistent rules across the market, warning against charging local players more than international entrants who have equal market access. Strong administration is needed to ensure fair treatment and to prevent a two-tier system that would undermine domestic firms. He also notes that consumer behavior shows a growing sensitivity to sustainability, even as price considerations often drive purchases toward the lowest cost option.
Regarding production shifts to other countries, Rocha points to the difficulty of finding skilled personnel. The strategy may require focusing on production lines that can be adapted through digitization and automation, especially in a context where labor shortages constrain growth. He describes a mismatch between labor demand and supply, with a demographic trend showing more people leaving the workforce than entering it. The industry faces a significant challenge from this ongoing manpower gap, which threatens its ability to scale and sustain new, more resource-intensive production methods.
In this environment, manufacturers are encouraged to rethink workflows, invest in smarter manufacturing and circular design, and collaborate with regional and national agencies to align with regulatory timelines. The outlook remains cautious but resolute: the sector can emerge stronger if it embraces innovation, workforce training, and governance that ensures competitive fairness while delivering sustainable outcomes for both the industry and consumers.