This peddler uses his arm as a makeshift rack for fake luxury bags, trying to stay close to a fountain that draws a crowd. The spot proves strategic, with a bustle of visitors and a classic Pantheon backdrop. A freshwater oasis nearby attracts travelers from around the world, who swarm like bees around a hive. Rome feels unusually hot today. People move to keep cool, shielding themselves from the sun, as umbrellas bloom in shades of black carried by many visitors from Asia. Americans pose in baseball caps and mirrored sunglasses. Locals, dressed head to toe in light linen, weave through the streets in the heat of the day.
The day wears on and more people fill the avenues. It is the elder generation from nearby neighborhoods who have not yet taken a summer break. Public offices, meanwhile, move at a measured pace with air conditioning keeping offices comfortable. Many young tourists arrive later, drawn by late-morning shows and the promise of exploration. Trastevere and Testaccio remain favorites for those seeking the city’s scenic charm after sundown, when nightlife gathers, glasses clink, and the occasional security glance is cast in a wary light. This was before the pandemic, and the situation has evolved once more in recent months.
An old postcard image of the Eternal City speaks to the democratization of travel and the mass appeal of foreign exploration. It mirrors what is seen in many major European capitals today. The lingering memory of the SARS-CoV-2 outbreak still colors perceptions, though today’s scenes show a city returning to its rhythm. Despite uncertainties, Rome has not yet surpassed its summer tourist peak from 2019. The tourism sector has adjusted expectations; local hotel groups reported occupancy far below earlier projections, with industry bodies noting a recent downgrading of bed occupancy estimates in Rome’s hostels.
summers before covid
The recurring challenges cited by residents and officials include refuse piling up on streets, taxi strikes, late-night metro closures, and occasional fires in peripheral areas. These are familiar hurdles of urban life, resurfacing as normalcy returns. Foreign correspondents, especially those from English-speaking countries, continue to document the city’s ebbs and flows with renewed intensity. City authorities have acknowledged pressures and promised solutions, while residents and visitors alike adapt to the familiar cycle.
Beyond the surface, the heart of Rome remains in its public squares and everyday life. Places like San Cosimato in Trastevere draw crowds of locals and visitors alike, creating a shared theater where open-air gatherings and spontaneous conversations unfold. On summer evenings, thousands might gather, sitting on blankets or folding chairs, to watch outdoor films under the stars.
The pandemic era left a lasting mark on this tradition. In 2020, national leaders showed solidarity with cultural events, and the practice of outdoor screenings spread to other neighborhoods in subsequent years. The goal was simple: keep communities connected while maintaining safety. The experience has become part of the city’s cultural fabric, attracting both locals and travelers seeking a sense of shared space.
sunset and traffic
The Tiber River, its flow lighter in the heat, still offers a quiet charm at dusk. Along the riverbanks, groups from dozens of nationalities stroll past stalls selling Italian specialties, jewelry, and handmade clothing from distant lands. European travelers remain common, while fewer visitors from Asia travel far these days due to ongoing travel constraints.
August does not erase the presence of residents. People stay in Rome longer than expected, and street life continues to pulse near government quarters and political centers. Cafes and eateries operate with steady energy, serving locals and a steady stream of visitors who linger over meals and conversations.
Recent political events have shifted the tempo of municipal life. As elections approached, city officials adjusted schedules and commitments for staff and collaborators, balancing public service with the realities of a city in motion. The calendar pushes forward, with the expectation that public life will resume its fullest rhythm in the weeks ahead.