A quiet revolution in quality bread is unfolding in Sigüenza, a small town of about 4,500 souls where a dedicated cook and a miller are reviving the ancient staple. They craft sourdough from buckwheat, the hardy grain of this soil, transforming a 15th‑century mill into a Relais & Châteaux boutique hotel where bread and baguettes are made with meticulous care. The story of Molino de Alcuneza, once a humble mill, has grown into recognition across the culinary world, earning Sustainable Sun Awards from Repsol Guide and praise from notable restaurants and chefs who spotlight the region. The project embodies a broader movement that treats bread as a cultural treasure rather than a mere staple.
We invite visitors to experience bread as a vessel of heritage, says Samuel Moreno, the Molino de Alcuneza chef. He demonstrates the simple, elemental mix of flour ground at the nearby Despelta factory by Carlos Moreno, water, and salt. With these four elements, a loaf takes shape—an homage to early processed foods that helped shape human civilization while inviting modern diners to rethink what they consume. This philosophy stands at the heart of the restaurant’s mission and its place in Spain’s renowned gastronomic scene.
A critique of over-refined bread follows. Samuel suggests that the common loaves are often tasteless and laden with sugars and refined proteins that compromise digestion. In response, the mill is oriented toward stone-ground, wholemeal flour produced from wheat grown locally, preserving the natural balance of carbohydrates, proteins, fats, fiber, vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and flavor. New bread-quality standards now encourage bakers to reveal the origin of flours and the full list of grains and seeds used, reinforcing transparency in the supply chain.
A study from the University of Valladolid notes that only a portion of breads are truly whole-wheat products, and the market is shifting toward clearly labeled ingredients. The shift toward whole grains aligns with a broader push for honest nutrition and traceable sourcing.
In some retail spaces, the presence of refined elements is evident, including the hull and germ of wheat. Samuel’s bakery at Molino de Alcuneza rejects industrial yeast, favoring a sourdough foundation with flour and water that slowly develops gluten in a controlled, natural fermentation. The goal is a bread that respects the grain and its heritage rather than accelerating through mass production.
Nearby, Samuel’s sister Blanca Moreno recalls the 15th‑century mill her family acquired. It once belonged to a wealthy church and supplied the region with stone-ground grain, tying Sigüenza’s fortunes to regional saltworks and agricultural wealth. The town sits along a quiet river valley and retains a sense of medieval grandeur in its stonework and sacred spaces, framed by a well-tended hotel garden and a tranquil atmosphere that invites exploration.
The nearby historic salt flats—used since Roman times and expanded in later centuries—helped establish Sigüenza as a wealthy hub within the Iberian Peninsula. This infrastructure contributed to the region’s expansive cultural and economic development, a narrative echoed by Blanca as she guides visitors through the town’s luminous landmarks, including a cathedral where centuries of artistry are etched in stone and alabaster.
Even as nights cool and stars emerge, Sigüenza remains a place where old crafts meet modern curiosity. In the morning, Samuel prepares dough with careful restraint, letting the bread’s authentic flavor speak for itself. The attention to quality has drawn attention from culinary inspectors who recognize the restaurant with a Michelin distinction, though Samuel remains humble about the accolade.
The philosophy behind the award extends beyond gastronomy. The community sees recognition as an incentive to improve crops and support beekeeping, with village producers exploring lavender, thyme, and rosemary honeys that reflect the Alcarria origin. Local farmers emphasize crop rotation and responsible stewardship, with legumes adding nitrogen to soils that feed the grains. A jar of buckwheat—rescued and preserved since the 1940s—serves as a reminder of the land’s long memory and resilience.
Samuel champions a method called respect panis, a slow-cooking procedure that celebrates organic grains without yeast or heavy equipment. The aspiration is clear: restore the value of bread and revive traditional techniques while meeting contemporary standards of taste and nutrition.
Beyond Sigüenza, the sustainable ethos extends to the coastal town of Reboredo in O Grove, where the Culler de Pau team, led by Javier Olleros and Amaranta Rodríguez, pursues daily innovation with a focus on minimizing waste and nurturing productive dialogue with regional farmers and biologists. The restaurant’s Sustainable Sun recognition highlights its experimental spirit and commitment to responsible cooking that respects the environment and local producers.
By-products find new life in inventive dishes, with chefs pursuing every edible possibility. Leeks, used across the menu, appear in surprising forms, turning humble ingredients into memorable experiences. The approach is practical: use every part, waste nothing, and elevate seasonality through thoughtful design.
Susi Díaz and her family, with two Repsol Guide Suns, manage La Finca in Elche. Their operations emphasize water conservation and energy autonomy through solar panels, illustrating how kitchens of the future can balance taste with responsibility. The family sees sustainability as a lifestyle, a philosophy that encourages broader reconciliation with nature while maintaining culinary excellence.
Xanty Elías’s Finca Alfoliz in Aljaraque, Huelva, follows a permaculture approach in its orchard. The practice respects soil biology, avoids excessive tilling, and integrates diverse crops that balance pH and microclimates. The shared message among awardees is clear: if environmental stewardship falters on profitability, sustainability falters as well. The growers and chefs alike view sustainable practices as integral to long-term success and community well‑being.