Pompeii Sparks a Kitchen Conversation Again
Pompeii, the famous city destroyed by Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, continues to reveal surprises. In a recent unveiling, archaeologists presented a two-thousand-year-old still-life fresco that centers on a scene resembling an early form of pizza. The image points to a culinary tradition linked to Naples, in southern Italy, where the modern pizza culture has its roots. This discovery adds a fascinating thread to the long history of Italian food, hinting at how ancient kitchens may have influenced today’s beloved dish.
The announcement came with a grand presentation by the Italian Ministry of Culture. The showcased image resembles pizza but lacks several elements that define the dish as we know it today, such as tomatoes and mozzarella. This nuance has sparked discussion about how the fresco fits into the broader story of pizza’s evolution in the region.
Experts suggest the fresco might represent a distant ancestor of the current pizza. The artwork is connected to the Neapolitan pizzeria tradition, a tradition modernly recognized as a World Heritage Site since 2017. Some scholars compare the fresco to a form of focaccia, a bread-based item standing in the family of flatbreads that inspired later versions of pizza. The interpretation remains open and vibrant as researchers debate the exact culinary lineage depicted on the wall.
Without Tomatoes
The central image serves as a base for a variety of fruits, including a pomegranate and perhaps a date, all arranged with spices or a hint of a pesto-like sauce indicated by yellowish and ocher spots. The absence of tomatoes is explained by their introduction to Europe only after the discovery of the Americas, which aligns with the fresco’s ancient dating and helps explain why the depicted dish looks different from what modern pizza fans know today.
Gabriel Zuchtriegel, director of the Pompeii Archaeological Park, highlighted the striking contrast between simple, frugal meals and the grand, sacred spaces they inhabited. He noted a tension between pastoral life and the luxury implied by silverware and elaborate artistic representations, inviting reflection on how pizza—born in the south of Italy as a humble staple—became a global phenomenon and even found its place among the most refined dining experiences. Zuchtriegel’s perspective frames pizza as both a daily nourishment and a symbol of cultural exchange that travels far beyond its humble origins.
Italy’s Minister of Culture, Gennaro Sangiuliano, added a note of enthusiasm, saying that Pompeii never ceases to amaze and continually reveals new wonders. This sentiment echoes the broader appreciation for how archaeology and culinary history intertwine, offering fresh angles on familiar favorites and inviting visitors and scholars to rethink what pizza represents in Italian memory and world cuisine.
Open Discussion
Archaeologists confirmed the fresco was discovered in 2000 in a house adjacent to a kiln, part of which had been excavated in the 19th century (specifically in 1888 and 1891). Recent weeks have also brought the discovery of skeletons from three victims, and investigations continue across a 22-hectare area at Pompeii’s site. These findings contribute to an ongoing dialogue about daily life in ancient Pompeii and how food is portrayed in art from that era.
Much of the ongoing debate centers on what the fresco reveals about food in Pompeian culture. The question of whether the depicted dish should be read as focaccia, an early form of pizza, or a broader representation of a communal meal has drawn interest from culinary historians and food safety authorities alike. An analysis of the still life found in District 10 of Pompeii IX is cited by European authorities as part of this discussion, highlighting how visual art can illuminate dining practices in antiquity.
Italy’s farmers association, Coldiretti, celebrated the discovery as a link between ancient and modern Italian cuisine. They noted that from Pompeii to the present, pizza has become a global symbol of the Mediterranean diet and its cultural and economic impact. The association highlighted the sheer scale of pizza production in Italy, with millions of pizzas made each day by tens of thousands of workers, underscoring the industry’s enduring vitality and its role in tourism and cuisine alike. This perspective stitches together history, culture, and modern life in a single, flavorful narrative.
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