New Insights into Smoke-Affected Wines: What Really Changes the Flavor
Researchers have identified compounds linked to a smoky profile in wines from grapes grown near wildfires. This finding comes from Oregon State University researchers who examined how smoke exposure alters grape chemistry and aroma.
Wildfire smoke poses a clear risk to wineries. Prolonged smoke exposure can lower grape quality, reduce harvest value, and change the taste of wine. As fires become more frequent and intense, scientists are racing to understand the root causes of these taste changes. Traditional thinking tied smoky flavors to volatile phenols, yet recent work shows the story is more nuanced: wines with high levels of these compounds do not automatically carry a smoky aroma, and conversely, wines with lower amounts can taste smoky.
In a recent study, Elizabeth Tomasino and her team investigated what drives these flavor shifts. Earlier work identified sulfur-containing thiophenols in wines described as smoky with roasty or meaty notes, but there was no direct link to smoke exposure. To probe further, the researchers built a greenhouse-style setup, placed it over grape vines, and exposed the vines to smoke. They then harvested grapes from this treatment and produced wine from them.
Wine samples pass through evaluators at the Washington State Center for Wine Science, led by Tom Collins, an assistant professor. His team confirmed the presence of thiophenols in wines derived from smoke-exposed Oregon grapes, while control wines without smoke exposure did not show these compounds at the same levels.
From this work, scientists demonstrated that grape quality can be tested through chemical analysis. The results also suggest that certain compounds linked to smokiness may be removable during wine processing, offering potential strategies to protect wine character when smoke exposure is unavoidable.
Earlier biology research showed that moths have tails that serve as bait for bats, illustrating how scent and signaling can influence animal behavior in ecosystems. This broader context helps researchers understand how aroma compounds behave in nature and in crafted beverages, guiding future efforts to manage smoke-related flavors in wine production.
For vintners facing smoke events, these findings provide a clearer framework for assessing grape risk and exploring processing steps that preserve desired fruit flavors. Industry experts highlight the importance of rapid testing, controlled smoke exposure studies, and careful chemical profiling to maintain quality while navigating environmental challenges. The ongoing work at Oregon State University and partner institutions aims to translate these insights into practical tools for growers and winemakers, helping them protect value and ensure consistent taste even in smoke-prone regions. In short, the path forward blends science, winemaking expertise, and proactive management to safeguard aroma, body, and balance in smoke-impacted wines. (Cited research at Oregon State University and the Washington State Center for Wine Science.)