Researchers from the University of Bordeaux provide a fresh look at when humans began sewing sophisticated garments. Their findings suggest that people living in what is now Spain stitched tight clothing at least 40,000 years ago. The study appears in Science Advances, marking a notable point in the timeline of early attire.
In a remarkable excavation, scientists uncovered a fragment from a thigh bone of an herbivore, likely a horse or a similar animal, found in an outdoor context. The bone bears irregular puncture marks, and its age is estimated at roughly 39,600 years. When this date is considered alongside other artifacts from the site, researchers conclude that the specimen is linked to one of the earliest Homo sapiens groups in Europe.
Experiments conducted by the team demonstrated a practical use for the bone fragment as a sturdy substrate. A piece of skin could be laid atop it, and holes were then drilled into the skin using incisors. Threads were threaded through these holes to sew the leather pieces together. The artifact shows repeated use, as indicated by the placement and condition of the holes.
Oft-cited estimates place the origin of clothes well beyond 120,000 years ago. In southern Africa, researchers identified tools that resemble early needles, dated to about 61,000 years ago. The Bordeaux team’s discovery provides the first documented evidence of a direct sewing technique used by ancient people to fabricate garments.
Archaeologists have also ruled out animal involvement in creating the punctures. The holes in the femur were determined to have been drilled by humans rather than by hyenas, bears, or other carnivores. An alternate theory proposed that the bone served as art or carried information such as a lunar calendar. However, the researchers point out that of the 28 holes observed, only 10 were flat and clearly visible, while 18 appeared irregular or shallow. Given that many holes would be impractical if the goal were to record a calendar, the team concludes that the bone’s purpose was more likely linked to sewing or garment production. The evidence supports a human-centered use rather than passive decoration or data recording [Citation: Science Advances, University of Bordeaux].