Magnificent octopus delicacies from Costa da Morte
In the salt-scented halls of a Costa da Morte kitchen, select male octopuses are placed in ultra-freezing rooms to begin a careful transformation. The master hand of chef Manuel Costiña at Retiro da Costiña in Santa Comba (A Coruña) presides over a patient process that spans months to guarantee a fully softened cephalopod. This approach aims to break down muscle fibers for a traditional bake that embraces a pure, water-free, salt-and-pepper free Galician style known as pulpo a feira, or Galician octopus served with cachelos.
A small apprentice on the crew notes, with a sparkle of curiosity, that octopus is sourced from Portocubelo. The tasting menu, Garatuxa, opens with a delicate, smooth start and is followed by baked Coristanco potatoes that complement the seafood first course.
Within the octopus sanctuary, Costiña selects the best-fed specimens from the brave, cold Atlantic, often paired with crabs and shrimp. This biosphere reserve teems with algae, fish, and shellfish, forming the ideal backdrop for a dish rooted in Galician tradition and sustainability. The restaurant’s kitchen is run with a sense of lineage, reflecting a family tradition that earned a Michelin star in 2008 and continues to honor the craft today. [Citation: Costiña family culinary heritage, Michelin recognition 2008]
To prepare, the octopus is defrosted, cleaned, and the tentacles rearranged. The chef emphasizes covering the pot and applying medium heat for about 50 minutes, allowing the octopus to release its own gelatinous juices. Cooking in its juices yields a reddish, collagen-rich broth that can be repurposed for other preparations. The tentacles are then coated with their own juices and a touch of salicornia until they are soft yet slightly firm to the bite. For Feira or Galician presentation, a finish of coarse salt, red pepper, and extra-virgin olive oil is added, though the core technique remains simple and honest. [Attribution: Traditional Galician pulpo preparation methods]
Costiña notes that the kitchen’s other offerings—such as a Kashena cow steak tartare matured in seawater, Santoña anchovies, warm Cobransosa oil, and egg yolk fritters with truffles and eel pasta—round out the tasting experience in the restaurant’s back room. The aim is to present a microcosm of Galicia’s premium produce through thoughtful preparation and bold flavors.
Galicia’s best product
The dining room accommodates seven tables for 28 guests, while a team of 14 supports the dining experience. The gastronomic showcase centers on the finest Galician products, beginning with bright cherry tomatoes, basil sorbet, and a Galician gazpacho. The menu continues with air-fried scallop crisps, coral water, and a mussel emulsion featuring wakame, alongside roasted sea bass with pepper cream and lemon pilpil. A braised lamb shank accompanied by seasonal vegetables and a selection of Galician cheeses finished with peaches, thyme, and lemon cubes closes the feast, all paired with a winery boasting an extensive collection. [Citation: Galician regional cuisine and wine pairing traditions]
As the meal winds down, a wine and spirits selection invites guests to linger in a dedicated after-dinner room. The collection includes rare whiskeys, such as a bottle distilled in 1940 during World War II and a few premium Cohiba cigars, adding a sense of history and ceremony to the dining experience. This whiskey, produced during a turbulent period, sits adjacent to modern vintages in a quiet homage to craftsmanship. [Citation: Historical whiskeys in Galician hospitality]
Located just three kilometers from the restaurant, Retiro Costiña Wellness & Villas offers a space where guests can enjoy nature, gastronomy, and rest, inspired by ancient Celtic landscapes and the castles that dot the region. The property brings together lodging with a culinary tradition rooted in the family’s coastal heritage. The villas emphasize a seamless blend of natural space and architectural harmony with the surrounding grounds. This expansion reflects the Costiña family’s commitment to turning dining into a full, immersive experience. [Citation: Retiro Costiña Wellness & Villas development]
This 21st-century castle comprises seven villas arranged without right angles to maximize airflow and natural light. Compact in size, the buildings are designed to permit air and water to circulate beneath, nestling into a landscape that feels both wild and refined. The project creates a cohesive space where dining, rest, and nature converge in a single sensory moment. [Citation: Architectural design notes for the villas]
In Costiña’s words, visitors previously came to dine but found no place to stay, or had to sleep quite near Santiago de Compostela. That insight inspired the current project, ensuring that every guest can complete the experience—from first bite to final nightcap. The family’s vision remains centered on hospitality that blends exceptional food with a memorable stay, a testament to Galicia’s enduring appeal. [Citation: Costiña’s hospitality philosophy]