In the rugged shores of Costa da Morte, a cadre of finely marbled male octopus specimens awaits their moment in the freezer rooms of a renowned Santa Comba restaurant, where chef Manuel Costiña works his craft with patient precision. For months, these sea delicacies have rested under careful selection, a quiet prelude to the kitchen’s main event. The goal is not merely to cook octopus but to coax every fiber into tenderness, coaxing out the liquid that gives traditional dishes their characteristic texture and flavor. The result is a softened, supple product ready for classic preparations such as pulpo a feira, the Galician octopus crowned with coarse salt and pepper, finished with a drizzle of olive oil and a kiss of sea breeze from the Atlantic.
During a casual conversation, Costiña mentions sourcing the octopus from the pristine waters around Portocubelo. The kitchen then envisions a tasting menu that begins with subtle, serene notes and unfolds into richer flavors, as illustrated by baked Coristanco potatoes that accompany the octopus. The scene is simple, almost austere, yet every component is chosen to harmonize with the octopus’s natural sweetness and briny depth.
In a sanctuary dedicated to octopus farming and care, Costiña hand-selects the best-fed specimens, drawing inspiration from the brisk, nutrient-rich Atlantic. The environment is a biosphere filled with algae, fish, and shellfish, an ecosystem that nurtures seafood with a particular character and resilience. The mentor-like approach to selection emphasizes consistency, ensuring that each creature contributes to a dish that respects its origin while showcasing Costa da Morte’s maritime heritage.
Costiña’s method also reflects a pragmatic preference in handling: he notes that female octopuses, with their tendency to lay eggs and shift tissue texture when stressed, can yield a chewier product. This insight guides the kitchen’s approach to procurement and preparation, aligning with a long-standing familial tradition that earned a Michelin star in 2008. The restaurant’s reputation rests on a philosophy of patience, careful handling, and a devotion to regional flavors that speak of sea, soil, and season.
Galician octopus recipe
In a hot, shallow pot, the defrosted octopus is introduced, cleaned, and its tentacles checked for any imperfections. The chef covers the pot and brings the heat to a steady medium, allowing the octopus to simmer for about 50 minutes for a two-pound piece, until it exudes a gelatinous, self-generated juice. Cooking in its own juices yields a reddish, collagen-rich broth that serves as a flavorful foundation for other preparations. As the octopus rests in this liquid, it releases a bouquet of flavors that bind the dish together. The tentacles are then coated with the juices and complemented by salicornia, a coastal plant that adds a crisp, mineral lift. The goal is to achieve tenderness without losing the bite that makes octopus memorable. If the classic Feira or Galician style is desired, a liberal sprinkle of coarse salt, a touch of red pepper, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil complete the transformation.
With the octopus at the center, the kitchen explores accompanying bites and textures, crafting small plates that echo the ocean’s generosity. The emphasis is on balance and restraint, letting the octopus and its natural juices guide the palate. The dish is more than a meal; it is a narrative of Costa da Morte’s seascape, a tribute to the patience of fishermen, the skill of the kitchen, and the sea’s enduring gifts.
What emerges is a study in texture and depth: a soft, yielding center with a firm edge, enhanced by the umami of its own reduction and the brightness of sea herbs. Each bite carries a memory of tide and wind, a reminder that the best seafood is often the simplest when approached with respect and care.
Beyond the octopus, the menu reflects a broader celebration of regional ingredients. The back-room offerings include meticulously prepared appetizers that showcase local produce and traditional methods, presented with a modern sensibility that respects the kitchen’s lineage while inviting fresh interpretation.
In this culinary space, Costiña’s philosophy is to honor the ocean’s bounty through technique that enhances natural flavors rather than masking them. The result is a refined, accessible experience that invites diners to savor the essence of Galicia and its storied coastline.