In the heart of Madrid, a restaurant with a storied past invites guests to linger instead of hurry. Pepe Morán leads De la Riva with a philosophy of slowness, offering menus meant to be savored without rush, accompanied by generous bottles of wine and ample space to linger until the body feels ready to move on. This is not a fast food moment; it is a traditional after-dinner experience crafted for friends and family who simply want to savor the company as much as the food. The venue’s reputation for hospitality is matched by its longstanding presence and the warm, unhurried pace that defines the evening meal.
The establishment, which opened in 1932 near a significant Madrid landmark, has long been a social crossroads where the ritual of dining becomes a relaxed ceremony. The emphasis is on comfort and conversation, pairing reminiscent home-cooked flavors with the distinctive character of large 27-liter wine bottles poured into wide-mouth decanters. The aim is to create a space where brand and meal mingle seamlessly with storytelling and laughter, and where the table becomes a venue for quiet negotiations, heartfelt toasts, and shared memories.
Pepe Morán speaks proudly of the audience that fills the tables each day, a crowd that includes influential regulars and longtime patrons who appreciate a menu that evolves beyond a mere list of dishes. The menu at De la Riva is intimate and conversational, replacing a sterile sequence with a living order where first courses invite conversation, and second courses arrive as a natural extension of the meal. The kitchen remains open long into the afternoon, inviting guests to enjoy a sequence of dishes designed to be shared and enjoyed at a comfortable pace.
From the moment chairs are pulled up to the table around two o’clock in the afternoon, diners begin to choose their favorites. The offerings include hearty, familiar items such as potatoes boiled to perfection with Iberian ribs, homemade lentils, and regional staples like petrossillao chickpeas and boquerones. The first courses are crafted to be shared, creating a sense of communal anticipation for what follows.
After the initial courses, Morán and the kitchen team present a second act, including traditional dishes such as eel with green sauce and a veal breast prepared to highlight its tenderness. Offal cooked in a pan with extra virgin olive oil showcases the restaurant’s commitment to seasonal, robust flavors and a respect for regional techniques. The atmosphere is filled with the sounds of the room—soft music, the clink of glasses, and the easy rhythm of conversation as the evening unfolds.
At around three in the afternoon, a playful moment arrives. Servers invite some diners to participate in song and dance, creating a lively interlude that reflects the restaurant’s festive spirit. The occasional chorus or performance may evoke strong reactions from guests, and Morán notes that some responses on social media can be vocal, ranging from praise to critique. He remains unfazed, confident in the warmth that characterizes his dining room and the loyalty of his guests.
Despite the festive energy, the kitchen keeps a steady pace, remaining open until the late afternoon. The guests often shift from games and light banter to continuing their conversations as they explore a range of beverages and bites. The dining room becomes a social hub where people mingle, share stories, and unwind after a long day, while the staff ensures every course arrives with care and attention.
De la Riva’s origin dates back to 1932 when Paulino de la Riva, a chauffeur in the circle of a prominent Spanish politician, first opened the doors. The restaurant quickly gained a reputation for accessibility and warmth, with Obdulia, De la Riva’s wife and the politician’s cook, playing a central role in the kitchen. As the years passed, the place remained a beacon of straightforward, comforting cooking that resonated with Madrid’s residents who valued familiar flavors and a friendly, unhurried pace.
In 2000, Pepe Morán acquired the establishment with a clear mission: to preserve De la Riva’s popular spirit while inviting new generations to enjoy its distinctive after-dinner culture. The transition kept the essence of the restaurant intact, continuing to invite locals and visitors alike to experience a meal that unfolds at its own natural tempo. The award from Schweppes, acknowledged by communications strategist Irantzu Basterretxea, underscored the brand’s long association with social moments of connection, whether around a table or a late-evening toast. The sentiment behind the award emphasizes the joy of gathering with customers and loved ones, often over a well-made gin and tonic, and the simple pleasure of a slow, shared evening.
Today, De la Riva remains a living reminder that a meal can be more than sustenance; it can be a ritual that anchors social life and strengthens personal bonds. The restaurant’s longevity testifies to a design that values human connection as much as flavor, a timeless approach that continues to draw new guests while honoring the traditions that have shaped Madrid’s after-dinner culture for decades.