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Smooth, creamy, cream cheese, blue cheese and more—chefs pick a champion among cheesecake varieties.
Spain has embraced cheesecake with surprising fervor. Once a New York symbol, this dessert now anchors menus across the country. The trend has grown for a decade, transforming cheesecake from a simple finale to a restaurant signature, especially in Madrid where a wide array of options tempts diners. In 2022 the prize for the best cheesecake went to a Madrid stalwart, Tatel, which crafted a two cheese blend using local sources, a goat roll and a goat bonbon from Vega de San Martín, highlighting regionally produced dairy.
During cheesecake day on July 30, chefs from around Spain shared their preferred versions. The competition remained fierce with two leading contenders contending for the crown until the last moment.
The first camp favors portable cheesecakes. Marcello Salaris from Madrid praises a vanilla cream cake that stays firm yet creamy, noting a biscuit base baked to perfection with organic Galician cheese for depth of flavor. Nacho Forkli and the Sanchez del Amo brothers also lean toward portable styles, praising Álex Cordobés for his approach that began in 2019 when he started home baking. The core idea remains ultra-fresh ingredients like eggs from Cobardes y Gallinas and a creamy Galician cheese, paired with a high quality butter. Their top choice features a cream cheese base complemented by La Peral blue cheese.
Among other enthusiasts, Daniel Ochoa from Monty in San Lorenzo del Escorial favors a patisserie brulee style in Colmenar Viejo. Ramces Gonzales from Zaragoza votes for a Michelin star level cake that stays creamy without excess liquid while introducing a hint of blue cheese. A love for family influence shines through in the memories shared by Juan Monteaguado from Ababo in Albacete and the team behind Aizen in Bilbao. The emphasis remains on a well balanced cake with a French cheesecake influence and an oven designed for perfect results. A favorite memory includes a slice saved for home, a reflection of the personal connection chefs have with their creations.
Another chef, Josemi Olazabalaga, recalls a journey that began with a place he learned to love and a method that proved pivotal. He mentions a special oven and the joy of sharing the cake with friends, a story of devotion and craft. The discussion also touches on a dessert that travels beyond borders, as chefs describe their own slow baked versions, sometimes using local cheeses, sometimes experimenting with mixed dairy to achieve a distinctive texture and balance.
There is also admiration for cheesecake creations that speak to tradition. Jose Antonio Medina from Coto de Quevedo emphasizes his own cheesecakes as a personal favorite while honoring his mother and a beloved family recipe. He recalls a home style cheesecake made long ago at the Hermanos Medina hostel in Puebla del Príncipe, noting that distance amplifies the emotional connection. Other chefs like Louis Hernani in Victoria and Philip Bao from a Chinese culinary lineage add regional touches such as a dash of spice or a citrus note to brighten the texture.
From classic to bold flavors
Some artisans stay true to a classic profile and reject overpowering notes. Elizabeth Master from Madrid has spent decades refining a recipe focused on a creamy, smooth interior and a refined finish. She avoids heavy blue cheese profiles in favor of balance. Rafael Vega of Forneria Ballaro in Madrid experiments with a factory fresh approach and a Galician blue cheese accent to enrich a standard base.
Other voices from the culinary map highlight regional cheese influence. Roberto Hernández from Latasia in Madrid admires the use of local cheeses from nearby Villanueva de la Vera in Cáceres. He enjoys the saltiness and unpretentious character of a well-crafted cheesecake. Javier Olleros of Culler de Pau in O Grove praises a nearby bakery or bakery adjacent concept that delivers a creamy texture with a subtle smoky finish.
Sergio Remacha from Alicante favors a hearty option near Barcelona that features meaty textures. Luismi Minor from Marbella selects a simple, unpretentious slice with a remarkable texture, noting that the cake changes often for the better as chefs experiment. Two standout pieces come from executive chef Néstor López who works across Madrid and other locales with memories of a majorero cheese based creation that pairs with violet ice cream and candy. A tart with Italian testun cheese and Barolo infused flavors occasionally graces the menu, a tribute to cross regional influences.
In Madrid, notable tastings occur at notable kitchens. Oscar Portalín, a kitchen lead in Casa de Campo, praises a cake for its intensity and creaminess. Beltrán Alonso at Mories House Choose from explores similar themes in a simplified, elegant style. Joseph Arias of Piscomar and Hasaku values authenticity and the joy of serving. GoXO draws attention for delivery friendly options that invite sharing. In Logroño, Fernando Saenz from dellaSera adds a majorero cheese rendition with paprika as a refined finish.
Madrid’s Horcher, located near Retiro Park, is acclaimed for cheesecake that is as comforting as apples and prepared with traditional precision. Francis Rivera, overseeing candlestick Y river, champions a toffee caramel finish with an exceptionally soft interior.
Four legendary anchors
Despite many favorites, four names recur in chef circles: Fismuler in Madrid, the Grupo Cañadío group in Santander and Madrid, La Viña in San Sebastián, and Zuberoa in Oiartzun. La Viña of San Sebastián, a 1990s classic, is often cited as a pioneering style that has defined a generation of cheesecakes. A New York-based executive chef who now works in Madrid and Barcelona votes for La Viña for its balanced texture and distinctive flavor. The enduring appeal of these temples is their ability to translate tradition into modern, shareable desserts.
The culinary conversation around cheesecake continues to evolve with new voices from across the country sharing their takes. The debate remains lively as chefs from major cities and smaller towns alike contribute to a national tapestry of flavors, textures, and techniques that keep this dessert at the heart of Spain’s dessert scene. This ongoing dialogue underscores the dessert’s power to unite regional dairy heritage with contemporary pastry artistry. The result is a collection of cheesecakes that reflects both memory and innovation, a testament to Spain’s vibrant culinary landscape. (Citation: Chefs and restaurants featured in Spain’s cheesecake roundups.)