Life unfolds as a vibrant ode to struggle, loss, and the quiet joy of survival. This is the enduring lesson Leo Espinosa, a Caribbean-born chef and artist born in Cali in 1963, carried with him on a relentless journey through thousands of cuisines. He sought to translate the magical realism of his homeland into food, cooking slowly and with a bold, provocative sensibility that blends desire with flavor.
From Cartagena de Indias to the archipelago of San Andrés and Providencia, Espinosa highlights a spectrum of Colombian tastes: fish, titote rice, snails, cone bread with beans, crab and olive pearls, ripe plantains, smoked eggplant, onion from Santa Marta, quail eggs, cilantro-sour cream, longaniza, achira tamalitos with pork, and hogao from Bogotá and Medellín. These are not mere dishes; they represent a country’s regional heartbeat as presented by a cosmopolitan voice who has become one of the globe’s most provocative chefs and earned the title World’s Best Female Chef in 2022 [Citation: Gastronomy World, 2022].
Espinosa brought his evolving menu to Spain years ago, traveling to Madrid and sharing his work with a wide audience. He spoke with this publication about the intersecting paths of economics, journalism, and culinary art, and how his career has transformed into a platform for cultural storytelling through food.
– What does an economist and journalist do when drawn to the kitchen in ways that feel almost cinematic?
– Along with his economic training, he carries a deep artistic lineage. He has always been drawn to art that challenges norms, and he chose to infuse that rebellious spirit into how food is prepared and presented.
– What kind of arts does this mean for the kitchen?
– His kitchen is a form of contemporary art, born from a need to explore, investigate, and convey meaning through taste and experience.
– And what message does that impart?
– The message is Colombia: a nation rich in cultural diversity and an astonishing culinary heritage that remains underexplored by the wider world. Espinosa frames Colombia as a land of countless regional cuisines, a product of mega-diversity and cultural depth that deserves global discovery.
– How does eroticism fit into the culinary craft?
– The concept is kitchen erotica: a careful balance of passion and patience. He notices that love can simmer on a slow flame, and while he may be a rebel in life, he remains rooted in tradition when cooking.
– How do roots influence this culinary art?
– He traces a blend of Spanish, Irish, and Indigenous legacies. Descended from a family of writers, doctors, and artists, his creative current runs through Espinosa de los Monteros. He jokes about his Irish traits—red hair, fair skin, freckles—yet he remains quintessentially Colombian, driven by a curiosity to explore every far-flung ecosystem in the country. It is a playful, honest mix.
– What about the conquest era’s imprint on Colombian fare?
– About 60 percent of traditional Colombian cuisine originates from Spanish influence. The conquerors brought not only livestock and flavors but a vital herbality—coriander—along with Arab flavors that blended into local recipes over centuries.
– How does today’s cooking engage with local ingredients?
– Before the conquest, a few recipes endured, often based on corn, tamales, wraps, buns, and tubers. The present-day cuisine thrives on what mother nature offers, celebrating endemic and medicinal plants as much as taste. Food is seen not only as sustenance but as medicine and culture ready to be shared.
– What about the legacies of Afro-Colombian cuisine?
– Afro culinary traditions contribute vibrant, colorful dishes — a testament to resilience, creativity, and a strong sense of celebration through food.
– How did Espinosa’s grandmother shape his culinary love?
– She planted a lifelong affection for Colombia, for stoves that fed the hungry, and for ancestral recipes. At 99, she remains a guiding presence, a bridge to the country’s cooking heritage and a reminder of the generosity that accompanies a shared meal. Her influence reflects in how the chef approaches cooking as communal act and memory keeper.
– How does Colombia itself taste?
– The flavors are wood-fired and smoky, a legacy of home kitchens where a wood stove burned daily to feed the needy in the Caribbean. This is not mere cooking; it is a ritual of care and connection.
– What makes the Colombian pantry so remarkable?
– Colombia ranks as one of the world’s most biodiverse nations, home to tens of thousands of botanical species, many endemic and culinary. Among them are unique herbs and fruits such as Santa María de anís, pipilongo, cupuaçu, mortiño, mangrove fruits, and a spectrum of rhizomes that define a pantry full of surprises.
– Has the coca leaf trade affected this pantry and its people?
– The issue has been a tragedy, an attack on heritage. While coca holds cultural and medicinal significance for some communities, illicit production and criminal activity have caused harm. The distinction between sacred plant knowledge and illegal exploitation remains a painful tension at the heart of Colombia’s culinary story.
– What has been learned from local and Indigenous communities?
– The core insight is that life is a celebration of pain and that joy can coexist with struggle. Happiness can come without wealth, and sharing food remains a powerful expression of community.
– What is FunLeo and what does it aim to do?
– In 2007, a foundation was launched to explore Colombia’s gastronomy across its magical realism landscape. Co-founded with Espinosa’s daughter, FunLeo seeks to honor traditional culinary practices, uplift communities, and build futures through gastronomy, food, and cultural exchange. The project emphasizes development rooted in culinary heritage and the dignity of those who keep these traditions alive [Citation: FunLeo Foundation records].