Melina Allair it has to be fast and efficient because once the marble balloon is punctured, the inside cools down and you have to carve and place the pieces on a silver tray next to the vegetables and dip them in. albufera sauce.
All this will happen in a matter of minutes before the expectant gaze of diners, who do not have the wisdom to book in advance. floating riddle. It looks like a dinosaur egg, elegant and airy. The impermeable wall prevents knowing what the balloon is and what’s inside.
What he’s hiding is a chicken, a ‘volaille en vessie’, Archeology, which few in France respect, and in this neighbourhood, and for now only Albert Boronat at Llivia Ambassador offers customers who want to connect with the new, indeed with the old.
because that bird in the ox sac is an old stew“Since the Middle Ages,” says Albert, but it’s so surprising, so groundbreaking, so visual that a soulless chef can sneak in with creative opportunism. An anomaly in times of gastro boredom.
its population livia it is also a mushroom rare in French soil, in a way that connects it with Puigcerdà in the Pyrenees, as if for a moment administrative reality is suspended. You reached the island by crossing an imaginary pedestrian bridge when there were borders.
We dine on the terrace of the Embassy at the end of June, the day before the restaurant turns eight years old. A stone house where its former owners served famous pasta.
Mélina, born in Brittany, and Albert, born in TarragonaThey immediately fell in love with the place: seen in the morning and signed in the afternoon. Having busy careers with Alain Ducasse and Jean-André Charial in France, and finally, owners of their lives, talents and decisions.
“I am promoting French cuisine, which has been forgotten and slandered for a while in Spain.. They say I brought it back into fashion. I don’t know,” the cross-border chief asks. At any rate, it’s the France of high school, the France of puff pastries, Carême’s. Yes, ‘pâté en croûte’ and ‘pâté en croûte’ and ‘pithiviers’ are the organizers of those baked doughs, tasteful cathedrals that are ruined in the hands of amateurs.
This is the second time I taste ‘pâté en croûte’ (soon to be sold on gourmet finishes), fourth at the 2018 world championships, and appreciate the feel of the meat and the structure of the frame; The slick density of the Pyrenean cow, tongue and cheeks, with a huge bite and gribiche sauce and ‘rossinyols’ with broth and ice wine from local winery Llivins.
However, the meal of the trip is the ‘poulet en vessie’ (€190), which Albert began practicing to entertain himself shortly after the opening. Because his appreciated cuisine has gone through periods of misunderstanding and loneliness. The recipe is that of Paul Bocuse. eugenie barbecuewith six Michelin stars! Françoise Fillioux. Another theory says that fame was given to him by Fernand Point, which he learned from Mère Fillioux. In any case, men were attached to women.
After that put about 1,200 grams of Landes chicken in the bladder and knot under the skin with truffle oil: “This is the most important thing”. With the knot you risk: the very sensitive papillote can break: “The temperature expands the steam”.
A blind kitchen in an open wide pot. “It is the experience that tells me when.” He doesn’t see what’s going on inside, but he knows. It sprays broth onto the wrap for four or five hours, which expands the perfume, although it doesn’t penetrate.
Mélina pierces the ivory balloon and emits a motivating scent.
Separate the thighs from the breasts, dip them in whitish ice wine sauce, broth, cream and foie gras.
Steamed wilt dish, perfect cooking of both parts, more pink thighs, show on the table, that ‘magnificence’ that makes us small.
Source: Informacion
