From August 17 to 19, Ulan-Ude hosted the International Buddhist Forum titled “Traditional Buddhism and the Challenges of Modernity.” The gathering brought together Buddhists, representatives of Buddhist organizations, monks, eastern scholars, diplomatic staff, and practitioners of Tibetan medicine. More than 600 attendees came from 13 countries, including the presidents of Buryatia and Kalmykia, Alexey Tsydenov and Batu Khasikov, who spoke at the event.
The forum reflected a blend of scientific and practical discourse with a diplomatic summit character. Guests hailed from Sri Lanka, Nepal, Laos, India, China, Thailand, Vietnam, Bhutan, Myanmar, Mongolia, Cambodia, and other nations. The result was a rare convergence of researchers, officials, and monks who showed deep respect and even warmth toward one another, culminating in several cooperation agreements.
The Republic of Buryatia emerged as a clear beneficiary. The region demonstrated its adherence to Buddhist principles and highlighted its many temples as points of interest for both Buddhists and tourists. The area invites comparisons with revered sites such as Angkor Wat in Cambodia, Bagan in Myanmar, and the Lumbini temple complex in Nepal.
On August 18 the forum’s platform became a pivotal venue for residents as participants gathered at Ivolginsky datsan to discuss the enduring presence of Pandito Khambo Lama Dashi-Dorzho Itigelov and the phenomenon surrounding his immortal body, a topic of extensive local significance.
Itigelov is believed to have entered nirvana in 1927 after leaving his body, and to this day he serves both as an object of reverence and as a guide who offers daily counsel to monks. The figure is observed through a glass partition, with visitors approaching in turn, asking mental questions, and seeking guidance in a quiet, reflective mood. This description captures the essence of the phenomenon rather than offering a definitive statement about it.
Where does one begin?
In Buryatia, Buddhism is not a matter of mere aesthetics. A conversation with locals quickly reveals how integral the tradition is to daily life. The people are known for their openness and readiness to offer directions and advice. A common suggestion is to visit Ivolginsky datsan first and to bow before the immortal body of Khambo Lama Itigelov.
A respectful introduction also includes the historical perspective. The Buryatia Historical Museum named after MN Khangalov houses an extensive collection of Buddhist sculptures and paintings that illuminate the region’s rich past.
Tibetan Buddhism established a strong presence in Transbaikalia during the 17th century through Mongolian channels. In 1741, Empress Elizabeth Petrovna legalized 11 datsans and 150 lamas. For two centuries a vibrant Buddhist school of fine arts flourished, Buddhist mysteries took shape, and Tibetan medicine developed rapidly. A copy of a Tibetan medical atlas is displayed in a Berlin museum, underscoring cross‑cultural exchange.
Tour routes that attract visitors
The regional leadership, led by Tsydenov, announced ready pilgrimage routes and cultural‑educational tourism programs for Buryatia. The message was clear: Buryatia is a focal point for Buddhist tourism, boasting numerous datsans, sacred sites, and religious shrines that draw travelers just by being there.
Among the highlights mentioned are Ivolginsky datsan and the Zandan Zhuu, a lifetime statue created from the Buddha’s image reflected in a river. Another landmark is the honored statue of the goddess Yanjima discovered in 2005 by a group from Buryatia led by Pandito Khambo Lama Ayusheev on a rock near Ulzy-Khaan mountain in Barguzinsky district. Pilgrims visit to seek blessings for fertility and personal renewal.
The regional leadership stressed that well‑established routes combine pilgrimage with cultural and educational tourism. The invitation was warm: everyone is welcome to explore Buryatia and its Buddhist heritage.
On the llama’s guidance
There are 28 Buddhist temple complexes, or datsans, in Buryatia, each offering a unique experience. Lama Dymbryl Dashibaldanov, a Doctor of Buddhist Philosophy and Rector of the Buddhist University named after Dashi Choynhorlin, recommended including the Aninsky datsan on travelers’ itineraries to view relics of Buddhism.
This monastery, founded in 1795, was a major center of learning for Khambo Lama Itigelov, who studied there for 23 years. The datsan was closed in the 1930s and later reopened in the 1990s.
In the Kyakhtinsky district, the Baldan Braybun monastery preserves the spontaneous mantra Om mani padme hum inscribed on a rock, a detail highlighted by Dashibaldanov. The Baldan Braybun datsan traces its origins to the 1730s when Pandito Khambo Lama Damba-Dorzha Zayaev established the site. The original dugans were destroyed in the 1930s, but the temple complex was reopened in the 1990s and visitors can still see remnants of the old foundations.
Behaving respectfully in a datsan
The Buddhist community emphasizes tolerance for visitors new to the practice. It is sufficient to follow simple conduct: maintain quiet, refrain from smoking, and avoid photography during prayer. Dugan shrines feature prayer wheels near the entrance, and visitors are encouraged to spin them as a sign of reverence and to invite blessings through the mantras housed inside.
Entering and exiting a datsan requires appropriate etiquette. The central entrance is considered official and typically reserved for priests. For lay visitors, the left entrance is used to enter and the right one to exit, always in a clockwise direction relative to the sun. Silence is expected during prayer, and it is customary to approach monks for blessings in an orderly sequence and with respect for the solar orientation.