London Fashion Week closed on February 20, with UK designers sharing their forecasts for how to dress for the Autumn-Winter 2024 season. Across the four fashion weeks in London, New York, Milan and Paris, London is often viewed as the least exclusive and glamorous, drawing fewer A-list stars (though Queen Elizabeth II did attend a Richard Quinn show in 2018) and, save for Burberry and a few global houses, not as heavily trafficked by the industry’s top houses. Yet this modest profile is part of its freedom, a week where designers feel less pressure and more space to experiment.
As journalist Tom Rasmussen notes in a recent piece for Dazed, London Fashion Week is the playful, provocative counterpart to the other weeks. The trends showcased last week carried that same sense of fun and spontaneity.
colored skin
A leather jacket or leather raincoat remains essential for the cooler season. While black and brown leather dominated the catwalks in jackets, skirts, and outerwear, many designers introduced color as a central statement. Burberry’s olive raincoats were replaced by bolder hues; Emilia Wickstead and Erdem presented wine red dresses with slender straps, and Dilara Fındıkoğlu of the Dilara-British House favored ultra-short red shorts with visible laces.
edible shades
Pantone Color Institute experts observed bright colors taking center stage in London, with several shades named after foods and ingredients such as almond milk, pumpkin puree, cherry tomato, and eggplant. Designers translated these names into vibrant looks, from Burberry’s olive-dominated palette to JW Anderson’s lemon cream wool dress and Roksanda’s rich plum ensembles.
floral prints
Floral motifs continued to flourish, now appearing in bolder forms. Beyond classic English roses, floral prints appeared on Richard Quinn evening gowns, Marques Almeida jackets and skirts, and Erdem coats. Floral suits, graphic tees, and even leather skirts found a place in collections.
Jeans
Denim made a strong return with diverse interpretations. London showcased denim that looked aged, washed, and recycled. Ahluwalia revealed suits built from denim in varying shades, while Molly Goddard offered a more conservative approach with full-length pipes, and Marques’Almeida presented pants tucked into shirts with ripped collars.
crinolines
Crinolines and voluminous skirts remained a hallmark of London Fashion Week, accompanied by florals, corsets, lace, and puff sleeves that nod to Elizabethan influences. Molly Goddard’s long balloon skirt paired with a loose blouse, Huishan Zhang’s evening gowns echoed early 17th-century London, and David Koma showcased fuller skirts without insisting they define the look.