Kate Moss and the “heroine chic” trend
Kate Moss’s pathway into modeling began in her teens. At 14, while returning from a vacation in the Bahamas, she drew the attention of Sarah Doukas, founder of Storm Management, at New York’s JFK Airport in 1988, and her modeling career started to take shape soon after.
Initially, Moss did not see herself as a model. In a candid 2022 interview, she recalled her mother’s skepticism when she was offered a chance to work with a modeling agency and move to London.
“My mother said, ‘I don’t think you’re photogenic.’ I joked, ‘Me neither.’” At that moment, she had no clear plan for life after school and was simply drawn to travel. Moss grew up in Croydon on the outskirts of London and admits she began acting long before she realized the potential of a full-time career. This insight came during a 2003 appearance on the SHOWstudio platform.
The first major photo shoot that introduced the world to the future supermodel was shot by Corinne Day in 1990. The cover of The Face magazine featured a 16-year-old Moss, though she later admitted feeling embarrassed about the implicit expectations of the shoot since she was still in school and aware of the intimate nature of some of the imagery.
The shoot proved challenging for Moss, who was reluctant to pose nude. She shed tears at the demand to undress, feeling uncomfortable in the moment.
Day pushed for a revealing image, saying the shoot would not proceed otherwise. Moss later described this period as painful yet pivotal, noting that the photographs ultimately helped shape her career and opened many future doors.
In 1992, Moss participated in a nearly nude Calvin Klein underwear campaign with actor Mark Wahlberg. She felt vulnerable and anxious on the way to work and, according to Klein, there was mutual discomfort between the two. Wahlberg later reflected that he never favored very slim models.
Calvin Klein’s campaign helped popularize what came to be known as “heroin chic,” a look marked by a pale complexion, emaciated features, and an air of fragility. The trend drew sharp criticism and faded from prominence by the end of the 1990s.
Kate Moss and drugs
The era of heroin chic faded, but Moss remained at the pinnacle of fashion. In 1999, she headlined a Burberry advertising campaign that helped revive the British house after a period of diminished relevance. She walked the runway with global supermodels and later became the face of Dior and Chanel in the early 2000s. Moss posed nude for a Lucian Freud portrait while pregnant in 2002, a work that later joined a private collection after selling at auction. Freud reportedly tattooed her tailbone during the session.
In September 2005, a Daily Mirror photograph raised questions about Moss’s personal life, showing alleged drug use from a studio setting. The fallout saw several major brands severing or suspending agreements, including Chanel, H&M, and Burberry, while Dior maintained a continuing relationship. Designer Alexander McQueen publicly supported Moss, featuring her in a moment where models wore T-shirts bearing affectionate messages toward her.
Moss publicly apologized, acknowledging that she let people down. The controversy paused parts of her career for a time, but she later addressed the situation with candor. In 2022, she reflected on the wave of judgment, noting the broader context of the era and the imperfections that often accompany public life. A profile from journalist Maureen Callahan in Champagne Supernovas highlighted ongoing discussions about addiction and the pressures of fame during those years.
The narrative links her relationship with Johnny Depp, which began in 1994 and drew intense media attention. Depp’s portrayal of their relationship and its tumult left lasting impressions on both Moss and those around them. Friends described the period as chaotic, with intimate struggles that followed after their separation in 1998. Moss later sought help through London clinics, citing severe fatigue as a motivator for seeking treatment.
Kate Moss after the scandal
Following the 2005 controversy, Moss’s career began to rebound. By 2006 she had become a symbol of revitalized style, appearing in a sculpture-inspired campaign called “Sphinx” and signing numerous contracts with major brands, including Rimmel, Agent Provocateur, Virgin Mobile, Calvin Klein, and Burberry. In 2007 she launched a fashion line with TopShop and expanded into fragrance and body care with Coty. She later pursued design initiatives with bags for Longchamp and a capsule collection with Supreme, followed by another TopShop collaboration in 2014.
Across her career Moss has graced countless magazine covers. British Vogue has lauded her as a defining figure, and photographers such as Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, Juergen Teller, and Steven Meisel have documented her work. In 2012 she joined Naomi Campbell at the London Olympic closing ceremony, underscoring her enduring influence in fashion.
In 2016, Moss launched her own agency, Kate Moss Agency (KMA), with her daughter Lila Moss often taking center stage alongside her. The December 2023 issue of British Vogue featured a mother-daughter pairing in coordinated outfits, illustrating their continuing synergy.
In recent years, Moss has remained active in fashion and business. She supported campaigns with brands like Bing and Bottega Veneta, and her influence extended into executive roles, including creative work for Diet Coke in 2023 and the establishment of Cosmos, a personal care product company launched in London in 2022. Moss has also pursued wellness and lifestyle interests, including meditation and gardening, reflecting a more holistic approach to life beyond the runway.
When asked about aging, Moss has maintained a candid stance. She told the Sunday Times that age is just a number and that she does not fixate on turning 50. Her move from urban life to the countryside in the Cotswolds reflects a desire for balance, with a focus on mindfulness, nature, and personal growth.