Hyaluronic acid is a popular ingredient in moisturizers, but its effects on the skin can vary depending on the conditions. Lyubov Stolina, a dermatocosmetologist and head of SKINCOUTURE, shared insights on how this ingredient can sometimes lead to dryness if used under certain circumstances.
Stolina explains that many moisturizing creams rely on large-molecule hyaluronic acid. This form sits on the skin surface rather than penetrating deeply into the epidermis, which means its moisturizing action is mainly superficial. In practical terms, it forms a film on the skin but may not reach deeper layers where moisture balance is regulated long term.
Environmental humidity plays a crucial role in how hyaluronic acid behaves. In high humidity, the molecules can draw moisture from the surrounding air, which supports skin hydration. However, in dry air or environments with low humidity, the same large-molecule hyaluronic acid can pull moisture away from the skin itself. That pull can contribute to a feeling of increased dryness rather than lasting hydration.
The timing and conditions of use also matter. Applying a cream containing hyaluronic acid before venturing into cold, dry weather can intensify the effect of moisture loss. Large-molecule acids tend to trap moisture on the skin surface, and when the air is cool and dehydrating, this moisture is more likely to evaporate from the skin along with some of the natural oils, potentially worsening dryness for sensitive individuals or in winter climates.
Stolina notes that products with hyaluronic acid at different molecular sizes can work together for better overall hydration. Using formulas that combine both large-molecule and smaller-molecule hyaluronic acids allows the larger molecules to hold moisture near the surface while the smaller molecules penetrate more deeply to support internal hydration. This dual action can help maintain a more stable moisture balance across the skin’s layers.
Beyond the moisture retention, the most important goal is to restore and protect the epidermal barrier. A healthy barrier prevents excessive water loss and shields the skin from environmental stressors. When the barrier is intact, moisture remains in the skin more effectively, and the risk of surface dryness decreases. In this approach, the skincare routine focuses not merely on temporary surface hydration but on reinforcing the skin’s natural defense system for long-term comfort and resilience.
For individuals managing oily skin, the message remains similar: balance matters. Lightweight formulations that hydrate without overwhelming oil production can support a resilient barrier. The choice of products should consider climate, skin type, and daily activities to ensure that the moisturizing strategy aligns with real-world conditions and delivers consistent comfort year-round.
In sum, hyaluronic acid is a versatile ingredient when used thoughtfully. Its effectiveness depends on molecular size, the surrounding environment, and the skin’s barrier health. A well-rounded approach that blends different molecular weights and prioritizes barrier restoration can provide reliable hydration without triggering extra dryness, even in Canada or the United States where humidity and seasonal changes vary widely.
Ongoing care should emphasize gentle cleansing, appropriate moisturizers, and, when needed, serums or creams that balance surface hydration with deeper moisture. By selecting formulations designed to work in harmony with the skin’s natural functions, consumers can maintain a comfortable, hydrated complexion through changing weather and daily life without compromising the integrity of the epidermal barrier.
Former cosmetologist guidelines suggest specific strategies for managing oily skin while keeping moisture in check, ensuring a practical, adaptable routine for different skin types and climates.