The journey spanned five days, tracing a route from Nizhny Bestyakh through Khandyga, Kuba, Ust-Nera, Susuman, Atka, and finally Magadan.
The author shares hard‑won survival tips for the Kolyma highway.
1. When leaving for Kolyma R-504, forget asphalt
The road ends about 200 km past Nizhny Bestyakh and reappears roughly 100 km before Magadan. Along its length there are scattered patches of good and poor pavement, mixed in a way that makes the surface feel unpredictable. It seems the builders sent a message through the texture rather than through a consistent plan.
2. Rubber matters—off‑road suitability
Out of roughly 1700 kilometers of primer, nearly 1000 kilometers have been treated with crushed stone. The material is sharp and jarring, enough to slice a tire if driven over 60 km/h. Only sturdy, off‑road tires can endure. The scene is littered with drivers changing wheels, and abandoned cars dot the route as owners run out of spare parts and hope to reach a tire service, sometimes dozens to hundreds of kilometers away.
3. Carry at least two complete spare parts
The road is pockmarked with deep craters, and traffic is sparse—on a typical daylight day, fewer than a hundred vehicles pass. Help may arrive eventually, but preparedness is essential so hours in remote stretches aren’t spent waiting. Having two complete spare parts is prudent preparation.
4. Don’t forget the scarecrow
Pack wheel repair kits, a spare inner tube, patch kits, and at least one 20‑gallon fuel canister. A bear scarecrow and noisy devices can deter wildlife; if a wheel change is needed, playing loud music can prompt bears to keep distance. It helps to have truck drivers nearby to stand by for a while when needed.
5. Install a CB radio or trucker radio
Cell service is almost nonexistent on the highway, so a CB radio offers the only reliable way to call for help. On this stretch, FM is the customary mode of communication among travelers.
6. Fill up at every gas station you encounter
Gas stations are unevenly spaced, especially around Cuba and Ust‑Nera. Skipping a fill can force fuel consumption from a jerry can. Some stations operate only during daylight hours. Gas costs around 76 rubles per liter for gasoline and 85 rubles for diesel. Cash is wise to carry, though cards are generally accepted and one station runs as a fully automated point.
7. Do not attempt night driving on the Kolyma Highway
The road width is poorly marked, and nights are pitch black. Dust is heavy in dry weather, and rain makes the surface slick as ice. On some passes, a sudden drop of hundreds of meters is possible, and rescue options vanish with the setting sun.
8. Book stays in advance where you can
Places to sleep along Khandyga, Ust‑Nera, and Susuman are limited and often reserved for long commitments by shift workers. If lodging isn’t secured beforehand, consider stopping at gas stations or in well‑lit settlements instead of waiting on the roadside.
9. Drive to minimize damage to the vehicle
Repairing serious damage after crossing the Aldan River is nearly impossible. The lack of nearby infrastructure makes the cost of a car transporter prohibitively high. Carry cold welding equipment for radiator leaks, antifreeze, and spare oil to reduce the risk of getting stranded far from help.
10. Bring gauze for dusty seasons
Dust clouds clog radiators quickly. A protective mesh atop the radiator grille helps deflect particles, and an extra air filter is prudent in case replacements are needed mid‑journey. The route’s dusty conditions demand preparedness for unexpected contingencies.
Dust is heavy in dry times, and the surface tends to sag under rain.
11. A 4WD SUV is strongly preferred
Sedans and other city cars perform poorly on Kolyma. In harsh conditions, advancing beyond the next obstacle is nearly impossible in a conventional vehicle. Even after completing the route, a four‑wheel‑drive SUV with high ground clearance remains essential. The author cautions against attempting the path in a passenger car, as mishaps can be severe and costly. An account of a previous extreme run along the R‑504 highway is available through personal records and viewer discussions, though those are separate from this narrative and cited here for context.