One day, a quick check of a winter tire profile can reveal missing studs. The situation presents several paths. A buyer could opt for new tires, a straightforward choice but demanding a higher price. Another option is to visit a tire shop, where specialists can replenish the spike count for a substantial fee. A third route is to attempt installation at home, though this carries risks and requires careful handling.
How studding has evolved
Two decades ago, shops offered nails inserted into holes drilled in the tread. Modern tires, with dense grooving, leave fewer opportunities for such installations, and traditional spikes did not always secure well in cylindrical holes.
A different approach involved self tapping screws marketed for studding, but long sharp pins suit large, hard tires used on special equipment. In passenger tires with thinner tread, these can create holes and compromise airtightness rather quickly.
As a result, developers introduced repair spikes designed to fit holes left by worn spikes. These spikes feature a steel body with a carbide rod protruding from a plastic skirt. A base washer of 12 millimeters helps lock the spike firmly in place, while the plastic skirt reduces weight since these studs are substantially heavier than standard ones made from aluminum.
Which tires are suitable for studding
Before diving in, a few questions should be answered. First, is the tread depth sufficient The minimum should be around 4.5 millimeters, with 5.5 to 6 millimeters recommended for studding. Second, is the tire too old Even if the tread appears adequate, tires older than seven to eight years may not hold spikes well due to elasticity loss. Studded tires offer benefits mainly when many studs are missing on each wheel, typically around 15 to 20 or more.
Once studs are deemed suitable, the next step is choosing the exact studs to install.
Choosing the right length
Repair pins vary in length depending on tire wear. The repair pins are sturdier than standard ones. Selection requires measuring the remaining holes of the original spikes with a depth gauge. Sometimes wear requires adding studs to all four wheels and may necessitate two adjacent sizes, though one size could cover a range, for example, 8 to 9 millimeters.
The smallest commonly sold packs contain about 100 spikes and can cost roughly 700 to 900 rubles. It is important to note that the hole depth is usually a few millimeters deeper than the visible spiked profile height.
Experience in procurement shows that shorter spikes remain in higher demand.
How is the installation done
Expertise and resources are available via study materials
Steps for installing spikes include the following sequence: first, verify hole depth with a vernier caliper; then select spikes of an appropriate height; next, clean the holes using a screwdriver or compressed air; apply soapy water to aid entry; load the spike into the studding tool, press it against the hole, and power the tool to seat it; finally, check the protrusion of the installed spike to ensure proper depth.
Will the heavier studs stay in place
Answers depend on multiple factors such as tire model, wear, driving habits, and the precision of spike protrusion, which should be limited to no more than about 1.5 millimeters above the tire surface. Extensive testing is required to confirm consistency. In a simple test, a wheel fitted with 21 spikes was driven on asphalt near freezing temperatures. The tire wore a hole seven centimeters deep, yet none of the newly installed spikes detached.
During material preparation, no spikes were damaged, though the asphalt itself showed wear. After the initial abrasion, the rubber appeared torn, yet the spikes remained intact. A key note is that the carbide rod should extend roughly 0.5 millimeters beyond the stud tip when selecting spikes.
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