Body
In earlier years, anti corrosion treatment for car bodies stood out as a highly popular service. The appeal made sense: factory protection often failed to stop rust during warm seasons, and car owners tended to change vehicles more frequently. In recent times, certain brands have shown stronger resistance to corrosion, notably Volvo, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, and newer Skoda models. By contrast, some brands have earned a reputation for weaker protection, including UAZ, UzDaewoo, and a few of the more recent Chinese makes. Most cars fall somewhere in the middle of this spectrum.
Anti corrosion methods fall into two broad categories, which can be thought of as Canadian type and European type. The Canadian approach fills hidden cavities with penetrating compounds. It is fast, cost effective, and works well for many vehicles. The European method takes a more thorough route, adding bituminous coatings to the underbody and wheel arches. This process takes up to ten hours and can be substantially more expensive, but the protection tends to last longer, typically five to seven years. Major brands of corrosion inhibitors include Noxudol (also known as Mercasol), Dinitrol, Waxoil, Tectyl (less common in today’s market), and Prim, a domestic option that performs very well.
Protecting the outside finish remains important too. Polishes, waxes, and similar products offer at least temporary shielding against wear from the elements.
The anti corrosion service has gained renewed momentum in recent years as owners recognize the long term benefits of preserving the metal skin of their vehicles.
Glasses and windshield wipers
Glass surfaces, especially windshields, face damage from oncoming sands, ice particles, and small stones. These hazards are difficult to avoid entirely while driving.
Windshield wipers are consumables that should not be treated carelessly. Some drivers resort to scraping or brushing off ice aggressively, which can shorten the life of the blades. When removing ice, it is helpful to use a soft plastic scraper, apply alcohol based cleaners, a warm thawing pad, and a gentle heat source. It is best to begin with the engine running and direct the heated air toward the glass to avoid a rapid temperature drop that could crack the pane. Scraping or forcing off dried on residue can also stress the wipers and the washer system.
Directing the air stream toward the ice at engine start minimizes the risk of thermal shock. Wipers can suffer from ice and dirt when not used with proper cleaning fluids or washing procedures.
Chassis
Special attention should be paid to rubber protective caps on drives and hinges. Contamination from dirt and deicing reagents entering through a ruptured boot can quickly impair the assembly. In some cases the safest option is a full replacement of the affected unit, though thorough cleaning and a fresh lubricant can also be a viable corrective step.
When a damaged boot is found, practitioners often opt for exchanging the entire assembly to ensure reliability and reduce recurring problems.
Engine
Cold starting and warming strategies matter for engine longevity. The piston area heats quickly while the cylinder walls stay cooler, creating large temperature differentials that stress metal components. A complete cold start on a very cold morning followed by heavy acceleration can lead to costly damage. A short increase in load after a brief warm up helps the metal adapt gradually, while clearing snow or planning the trip with the navigator allows a smoother start once the vehicle is moving. In short, letting the engine warm up before pushing it hard yields better long term results.
Therefore, a calm first few minutes after starting is beneficial; this approach helps the engine reach its operating temperature more evenly and reduces sudden thermal shocks.
Mechanical gearbox
Lubricants thicken in the cold, so warming the mechanics is essential. In a manual transmission, components rotate as soon as the engine runs, helping distribute oil even when the car is stationary if the clutch pedal is not pressed. A similar principle applies to automated gearboxes, where smooth engagement depends on adequate lubrication. Cold operation is more risky for automatics, and a waiting period of five to ten minutes after starting is common to let the oil warm before engaging gears.
In practice, this means avoiding rapid gear changes in the first moments of motion and allowing the drivetrain to reach operating temperatures gradually.
Automatic transmission
When the transmission fluid thickens, clutch packs can slip and wear faster, and the torque converter may suffer as well. A prudent approach is to warm the system before a trip. The traditional automatic does not heat significantly while parked, so drivers should select a suitable gear without rushing, using gentle throttle and steady movement. The bulk of heating occurs once the car is moving, so gradual acceleration in the initial kilometers is advisable to reduce wear and tear.
Expert commentary
Viktor Elchaninov, director of the CardanBalance branch in Voronezh, recommends warming the front drive components before a winter trip. He suggests driving the first few kilometers at moderate speed to ensure bearings and cross joints lubricate evenly along their grooves, extending the life of the cardan shaft. Signs that a gimbal needs attention include grinding noises, humming during movement, or strong vibrations when accelerating beyond 60 km/h. Cardan shaft lubrication should be performed at around every 15 000 kilometers. These practices help safeguard the drivetrain and enhance reliability in cold weather.
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Photo attributions: AGN Moscow and Behind the Wheel