There was a time when people enjoyed eel without a second thought. It was abundant, ubiquitous, and appealing. Across generations, the eel has been a staple for coastal cooks and inland diners alike. Yet a warning grows louder: the eel population may not endure much longer if current patterns continue.
Historical notes show that eel was once common in parts of Spain where it later vanished from daily menus. From late in the 16th century records describe Helechosa de los Montes in Badajoz calling eels the best fish, and Torralba de Calatrava noting a long stick and a fat eel as a familiar sight.
By the mid 19th century, eels filled plates across nearly all of Spain. Under the editorial guidance of Pascual Madoz, accounts describe delicate eels in places as varied as Cabra, Canals, Lake Carucedo, and Mansilla. One line in La Rioja even mentions an eel weighing more than 11 kilograms in the old market traditions, a town now submerged by a reservoir that bears its name.
After enduring for generations, a strong culinary culture formed around eel. Fried, boiled, smoked, or prepared in regional styles, eel became a familiar dish. Its journey continued as eels reportedly reached European shores after a remarkable voyage from the Sargasso Sea.
But the trend cannot continue forever. Persisting with eel consumption poses a real threat to its survival. The time to act is now to prevent a future without this fish.
Global collapse of eels
The European eel faced a dramatic collapse in the late 1970s and has not recovered since. Modern shores show far fewer eels than decades ago, with estimates suggesting roughly five eels today for every hundred that existed half a century ago.
The decline is so severe that the European eel is listed as critically endangered, the most extreme level before extinction. In scale, the situation is comparable to past milestones of other species facing severe threats.
The eel crisis has drawn comparisons with other conservation challenges. While efforts have succeeded for some species, the eel remains at risk despite concerted public interest and policy debates.
This evolving situation shows how long standing culinary traditions can collide with biology and ecology. The resilience of the eel population matters not only to food culture but to the broader health of aquatic ecosystems. As long as demand continues, pressure on the species persists, and the balance of supply and natural regeneration remains unsettled.
The causes of the eel’s collapse are complex and varied. Local factors interact differently across regions and time, and their combined impact complicates remediation. Among these factors, fishing at various life stages has been identified as one of the possible contributors. Addressing this issue is widely viewed as essential to aiding any potential recovery.
Some argue that if eels disappear locally, consumption might shift to populations elsewhere. Yet no eel species exists globally that can sustain heavy commercial fishing and international trade without risking collapse.
Involvement of gastronomy
No restaurant would consider adding endangered species to a regular menu in ordinary circumstances. Yet the European eel continues to appear in dishes and tasting events, despite its elevated risk status. This paradox highlights a broader tension between culinary curiosity and conservation.
Last year a high profile chef menu featured eel, and media coverage used the moment to encourage readers to rethink assumptions and perhaps reconsider the eel. Television programs have included eel in their recipes, sustaining a controversial dialogue about sustainability and taste.
The practice of cooking eel and its status as a threatened species raise questions about culinary habits and responsibility. Some programs continue to feature eel while others advocate restraint. The ongoing debate reflects a broader ethical stance that food choices carry ecological consequences.
Between early March and the coming events, regional culinary showcases still highlight eel dishes at elevated prices. These festivals expose the public to the dish while prompting consideration of the broader implications for the species. Questions arise about how many small servings can be produced given the precarious status of the eel population.
Beyond price tags, the shipping and availability of raw eel raise concerns about the sustainability of the supply chain. The chain from harvest to plate should consider ecological limits and responsible practices to avoid accelerating the species decline.
The food industry at large must pause and reflect on the pressure it creates. The aim is not to ban all use of eel, but to discourage practices that contribute to extinction. Governments, both regional and national, show varying responses to the issue, and continued awareness is essential to reduce demand that harms the species. Until the eel is managed in a sustainable way, public conversation and responsible choices should guide consumption.
The goal remains clear. If eel populations are to recover, hunting and trade should be limited until robust, verifiable recovery is achieved. A future where eel becomes abundant again would allow the dish to return, but only if informed and cautious stewardship is adopted. The hope is for a time when eel can again be enjoyed without jeopardizing the species.
Reference material: a public discussion on eel conservation and consumption trends.
Miguel Clavero Pineda
CSIC research staff at the Doñana Biological Station
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Environment department contact address has been withheld in this revised version for privacy and policy reasons.
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