The global rise of ultra-fast fashion marketplaces and European regulation
Two euro T-shirts, eight euro dresses, and packs of headbands for a single euro coin illustrate how ultra-fast fashion has reshaped consumer habits. Chinese marketplaces and platforms such as Shein, Temu, and AliExpress have dominated the European market for years, especially among younger shoppers. This era favors rapid, voluminous consumption: buying multiple identical T-shirts in various colors only to store them unworn. Production occurs across Europe under questionable conditions, with the capacity to introduce thousands of new items daily. France has taken a bold first step by proposing laws that limit advertising and curb environmentally harmful activities linked to these Asian platforms. Other European nations are watching closely, and Spain is preparing to follow suit with measures aimed at curbing greenwashing and promoting sustainable consumption before March 2026.
Although the French framework focuses on textile brands, the underlying production model is shared by platforms like AliExpress and Miravia. In Turkey, for example, a parliamentary proposal urges online stores to offer more than a thousand new products daily to counter what critics call an addictive download economy. If changes are not made, platforms may face a special levy on every clothing item sold, with the levy potentially reaching ten euros by 2030, and not exceeding half of the sale price.
The prospect of these restrictions has ripple effects across the market. Industry experts note that while the European measures seem strong on paper, the practical impact hinges on price and advertising strategies. Advertising bans could affect the business models that rely on app-based customer acquisition and steep discounts. Some analysts argue that Temu has relied on aggressive pricing beyond typical market margins, which complicates regulatory efforts.
Rapidly expanding footprint
Chinese platforms are moving quickly to demonstrate alignment with European sustainability expectations. For instance, Shein recently introduced a sustainable denim collection that utilizes water-saving technologies, and has previously highlighted lines made from recycled polyester. Temu promotes forest restoration projects in sub-Saharan Africa to offset carbon emissions, while other platforms have yet to articulate comparable environmental commitments.
Spain has witnessed a surge in the presence of these marketplaces since their arrival. Data indicate that Shein’s customer base grew from roughly 500,000 to more than 5 million within five years, with average order values around 50 euros, compared to typical costs at other fashion retailers. App usage data from 2023 show that Chinese platforms ranked highly among fashion shoppers, surpassing many local alternatives. Market observers estimate high growth in orders for AliExpress and confirm Temu and Miravia rank among the most downloaded shopping apps in Spain.
Public disclosures on sales and profits from these platforms remain scarce. Estimates reported by major financial outlets place Shein’s 2022 revenue around 21 billion euros with substantial profitability, while a leading European retailer posted annual revenue of over 32 billion euros with profits near 4.1 billion euros. Recent years have also seen Temu capturing a notable share of the U.S. market, with Spain signaling it as a growing force behind the rapid expansion of these marketplaces in Western Europe.
Sustainability indicators by nation
The fashion industry remains one of the most polluting sectors globally, with fast fashion brands often criticized for chemical usage, microplastic generation, and high CO2 emissions driven by rapid production cycles. The European Union has long pursued regulatory avenues to curb overconsumption. The European Green Deal, launched in 2019, sets ambitious climate goals for 2050 and is complemented by a Circular Economy Plan and a 2022 strategy for sustainable and circular textiles. The Ecological Claims Directive, enacted in 2023, requires companies to substantiate green claims in marketing and labeling.
Regulatory momentum in Europe is expected to continue, with national measures augmenting EU-wide rules. Academic and industry voices suggest that new taxes and stricter labeling could pass through Europe and ripple to member states, influencing the pricing and availability of fast fashion. In Spain, for instance, discussions are underway to incorporate sustainability rules into national legislation that would help curb misleading claims and reward genuine investments in environmental improvements. The goal is to ensure that labels claiming ecological benefits are verifiable and that companies demonstrating real reductions in environmental impact receive recognition rather than penalties simply for green messaging.
Experts emphasize that the question is whether the business models can adapt without eroding consumer access or market vitality. If demand remains for ultra-cheap clothing, providers may adjust by offering more affordable sustainable options. If consumers request higher-quality products with transparent supply chains, the market could shift toward expanded sustainable lines. Analysts caution that changes on the regulatory front will influence business strategies more than the platforms themselves, as consumer behaviour will ultimately determine which products prevail.