A celebrated figure in the world of cheese, Rosa Maria Fernandez is hailed as the “pole star of cheeses” by locals who regard the Cabrales region as a beacon of tradition and quality. The Llagar de Colloto restaurant in Oviedo recently earned the top honor in the Cabraliego competition with a record bid of 30,000 euros, paid in a reserved auction that drew intense public interest until the final moment. This amount surpassed the previous high of 20,500 euros set in 2019, signaling growing recognition for Cabrales and its producers.
The restaurant’s owner, Iván Suárez, admitted surprise at how high the bidding climbed. He described the win as a means to reward his team, noting that a portion of the proceeds would support the broader Cabrales community and the DOP’s ongoing efforts to promote the origin of the cheese produced 365 days a year.
The press coverage also highlights a remarkable streak: the innkeeper had previously won the best cheese prize four consecutive times at Arenas’ competition and even set a Guinness-record narrative around his achievements. He paid 14,300 euros in 2018, 20,500 euros the next year, and 17,000 euros in 2022. Suárez expressed pride that the Cabrales Denomination of Origin (DOP) is gaining resonance and global recognition, and that he feels part of that growth.
According to Suárez, the intention is to savor the cheese with family and friends rather than selling it in bulk. The approach emphasizes securing ample produce to maintain the restaurant’s quality throughout the year, ensuring that the finest Cabrales products remain available to patrons.
The winning cheese came from the Los Puertos cheese factory, located in Poo de Cabrales. It combines cow and goat milk and matures for ten months in high-altitude caves at roughly 1,500 meters above sea level. Guillermo Pendás Bada, the owner, expressed joy at both the recognition and the price achieved for the piece. He noted that while they expected good results, success ultimately depends on a mix of luck and taste preferences of judges and fellow bidders.
The competition marks a second championship for the Los Puertos facility. The producer first claimed victory in 2007, less than three years after starting dairy work, though the family traces the cheese-making tradition much further back. The grandmother’s recipe remains a key influence, a legacy that continues to shape the craft today. A lighthearted moment during the event was the naming of a participant as “Major Pastor,” with Sofia García González and her great-aunt Herrero joking that the prize would stay within the family. The sense of shared heritage was evident among the attendees.
Los Puertos cheese factory led the edition, which featured fifteen producers. More than a ton of Cabrales cheese changed hands in transactions ranging from 25 to 50 euros per kilo. Although weather reduced turnout slightly, ticket sales were robust, with most seats filled during the morning hours.
The morning atmosphere was bright, with the event drawing in notable figures who reminded attendees that Cabrales is deeply tied to Asturias’ cultural fabric. Rosa María Fernández, a mountaineer and climber with a long connection to the region, spoke about the evolving relationship between mountain sports and cheese. He explained that his passion for climbing began in the Picos de Europa, a place he describes as a base where he recharges his energy and concentrates on sport. The interview also touched on his fondness for Cabrales cheeses, which he has long carried as travel companions. He noted that sharing these cheeses helps forge friendships and alliances, and that the social value of the cheese is as important as its taste.
Official observers at the event included the Deputy Head of the Principality, Gimena Llamedo, and the Minister of Rural Affairs, Marcelino Marcos. The Minister announced a 50 percent increase in regional aid for Cabrales production, elevating total regional investment to 37,865 euros. With twenty-two producers in Asturias, the industry has collectively raised the average price for Cabrales through sustained effort, with the bulk of larger-scale sales expected to be directed to national markets. In total, 353,204 kilos of Cabrales were projected for origin sales in 2022, illustrating a strong trajectory for the product and its regional economy. (Source attribution: Cabrales DOP)